Hydroponic Chronicles

New breeding and cultivation techniques

Main article: Cannabis (drug) cultivation

It is often claimed by growers and breeders of herbal cannabis that advances in breeding and cultivation techniques have increased the potency of cannabis since the late 1960s and early ’70s, when delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol was discovered and understood. However, potent seedless marijuana such as “Thai sticks” were already available at that time. In fact, the sinsemilla technique of producing high-potency marijuana has been practiced in India for centuries.^{[citation needed]} Sinsemilla (Spanish for “without seed”) is the dried, seedless inflorescences of female cannabis plants. Because THC production drops off once pollination occurs, the male plants (which produce little THC themselves) are eliminated before they shed pollen to prevent pollination. Advanced cultivation techniques such as hydroponics, cloning, high-intensity artificial lighting, and the sea of green method are frequently employed as a response (in part) to prohibition enforcement efforts that make outdoor cultivation more risky. These intensive horticultural techniques have led to fewer seeds being present in cannabis and a general increase in potency over the past 20 years. The average levels of THC in marijuana sold in United States rose from 3.5% in 1988 to 7% in 2003 and 8.5% in 2006.^[43]

“Skunk” cannabis is a potent strain of cannabis, grown through selective breeding and usually hydroponics, that is a cross-breed of Cannabis sativa and C. indica. Skunk cannabis potency ranges usually from 6% to 15% and rarely as high as 20%. The average THC level in coffeehouses in the Netherlands is about 18–19%.^[44]

The average THC content of Skunk #1 is 8.2%; it is a 4-way combination of the cannabis strains Afghani indica, Mexican Gold, Colombian Gold, and Thai: 75% sativa, 25% indica.^{[citation needed]} This was done via extensive breeding by cultivators in California in the 1970s using the traditional outdoor cropping methods used for centuries.^{[citation needed]}

In proposed revisions to cannabis rescheduling in the UK, the government is considering rescheduling cannabis back from C to B. One of the reasons is the high-potency marijuana.^[45]

A Dutch double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, cross-over study examining male volunteers aged 18–45 years with a self-reported history of regular cannabis use concluded that smoking of cannabis with high THC levels (marijuana with 9–23% THC), as currently sold in coffee shops in the Netherlands, may lead to higher THC blood-serum concentrations. This is reflected by an increase of the occurrence of impaired psychomotor skills, particularly among younger or inexperienced cannabis smokers, who do not adapt their smoking-style to the higher THC content.^[46] High THC concentrations in cannabis was associated with a dose-related increase of physical effects (such as increase of heart rate, and decrease of blood pressure) and psychomotor effects (such as reacting more slowly, being less concentrated, making more mistakes during performance testing, having less motor control, and experiencing drowsiness). It was also observed during the study that the effects from a single joint lasted for more than eight hours. Reaction times remained impaired five hours after smoking, when the THC serum concentrations were significantly reduced, but still present. When subjects smoke on several occasions per day, accumulation of THC in blood-serum may occur.

Another study showed that consumption of 15 mg of Delta(9)-THC resulted in no learning whatsoever occurring over a three-trial selective reminding task after two hours. In several tasks, delta(9)-THC increased both speed and error rates, reflecting “riskier” speed–accuracy trade-offs.^[47]

SPECIES

The next thing one should know about are the different types
of Cannabis species. There are 3 main species of Cannabis plants.
These are Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis. Each species has its own group
of strains which are many. Each species has different characteristics
and each strain of each species has its own special identity–

SEEDS

At the moment there are approximately 450 seed varieties of
Cannabis on the market today. Out of the 450 seed varieties, 200 are
worth looking at and out of the 200 varieties about 50 or so are
outstanding. Each strain is either a pure species type (taking 2 plants
of the same species and crossing them) or a crossbreed of two or more
species (taking 2 plants from different species and crossing them).

Out of the 450 seed varieties we said that 200 where good.
This leaves 250 left. Those 250 are usually very unstable crossbreed
strains. These complete hybrids plants are mixed so much that they
can not be classified at either Sativa or Indica. They are classified in a
different way and we will explain this in the strain format table below.
Most hybrids do not last long on the market and are primarily
found only among breeders who are experimenting with their plant’s
genetics. Seed producers tend to only produce the following strain
categories. Some Hybrids can be excellent though!

PURE SATIVA (This is a pure species)
SATIVA (This is a mostly Sativa species with some Indica)
PURE INDICA (This is a pure species)
INDICA (This is a mostly Indica species with some Sativa)
INDICA/SATIVA (This is a 50/50 cross between a Sativa and an
Indica species)
They also produce:
RUDERALIS (This is a pure species)
And some other Ruderalis mixes. However Ruderalis is a
problematic plant. It does not produce large quantities of THC, nor
does it flower like the other varieties. Ruderalis is considered substandard
by most growers because it flowers according to age and does
not flower according to the photoperiod. We will explain what the
photoperiod is in a moment.

Now remember that we said an Indica/Sativa cross would
produce two different highs. Well we lied a little. If they are both
50%/50% crosses then the high will be a 50%/50% mix. Indica/Sativa
and Sativa/Indica is really the same thing.
Pure Sativa is a total ‘Head High’. Pure Indica is a total ‘Body
Stone/couch-lock’. A 50/50 cross will give a 50% ‘Head high’ and a
50% ‘Body Stone’. If an Indica plant is crossed slightly with a Sativa
plant it will give a 60% ‘Body Stone’ and a 40%‘Head High’. A Sativa
plant that is crossed slightly with an Indica plant will give a 60%
‘Head High’ and a 40% ‘Body Stone’. The 60/40 ratio is most
common but some breeders can change that ratio. When choosing a
seed, check to see if it is pure or if it has a ratio. Most seed sellers will
have this listed along with their seed type. So when we look at some
strains that are crossbreeds we must understand which species the
plants are leaning towards. Along with the cross you can expect that
the plant will look different. Some Sativa plants may be shorter
because of the Indica breeding in them and some Indica plants may be
taller because of the Sativa breeding in them. This is okay though
because later on we will find that as a grower we have control over
how a plant will look and grow. As a grower we can influence height
and plant features. We can also harvest the plant in such a way that we
can produce a different high type. The later you harvest the plant the
more you will help produce a couch-lock effect. Harvesting just before
peak will induce a cerebral high. If you are working with strains that
are for either cerebral or couch-lock highs then you can harvest early
or later and help produce some of these ‘high type’ properties.
Figure 2.2 -This is a wonderful harvest picture by GIYO.
Hopefully with the knowledge you have been given so far you
are equipped to choose a plant that fits your needs in terms of height,
potency and high type. There is no point trying to grow an 8-foot
Sativa Bush indoors if you do not have the space for it. 2 foot Indica
plants outdoors may not survive if other plants compete with it for
light. As a rule we can always shorten the plants lengths through
pruning, but rarely can we double the plants height if the strain’s genes
only allow the strain to grow 2 or 3 feet.

HOW TO GET SEEDS

The best way to get seeds is from a friend who has grown a
type of plant that you enjoyed to smoke. This, by far, is the best way
because, (1) You will get the seeds for free and (2) you know what the
high type will be because you have already tasted it.

The next best way is the Internet. The Internet is full of seed-
banks that wish to sell you seeds, but there are a few problems that you
may encounter. The first problem is that some of these seed-banks will
rip you off. The second is that some of these seed-banks do not ship
worldwide. The third is that some of these seed-banks misrepresent
their stock. The fourth is that seeds can be very expensive. Some seed-
banks sell seeds anywhere between (US Dollars = $, UK Sterling = £)
$80/£70 and $300/£290 for 10 -16 seeds. There are rip-off artists out
there, but then again some of these seeds are worth the money because
the strain is excellent in vigor and production. So how do we choose
our seed-bank and how do we really know what seeds to pick. (Greg Green Quote)

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN CHOOSING SEEDS

Okay, so now you have an idea of what type of plant you want
and the seed-bank that you are going to use. The next step is too check
if the seeds are for indoor or outdoor use. There is a saying that all
cannabis seeds can be grown indoors and outdoor. This is true, but that
is not what the breeder had intended. If the breeder had created a plant
that does well indoors then it is suggested that you only grow these
seeds indoors. If you grow outdoors and the plant does not produce
that well, then you know that you should have followed the breeder’s
advice. Next time take that advice. There is nothing stopping you from
experimenting, and some growers have produced excellent results by
putting outdoor seeds indoors or putting indoor seeds outdoors, but it is
best if you follow the advice you are given, especially if you are new to
growing.

From the Cannabis Grow Bible By Greg Green

THC

Cannabis plants produce psychoactive ingredients called
cannabinoids. The main ingredient of the cannabinoids that gives the
high effect is called -delta 9 THC. All strains vary in THC levels that
come in different percentages. Some plants may contain 100% THC
but the “levels” of THC may be low. Other plants have only 60% THC,
but the “levels” of THC may be very high. A good potent plant will
have both levels and quantities very high. Cannabis plants also
produce something called -delta 8 THC. This ingredient is in low
levels but does contribute to the high. When we mention THC levels,
we are talking about both delta 8 and 9 THC.

There are also other ingredients that add to the high such as
CBD, CBN, THCV, CBDV, CDC and CBL, but are only very minor
compared to THC.

The difference between THC levels and THC quantities is that
THC levels are genetic. They are not under the influence of the
grower. THC quantities on the other hand are. This is to do with bud
mass and how much resin can be generated in that bud mass.

Some bud may only contain 20% THC, with a THC level of 5.
The same plant grown under better conditions and light will produce
70% THC, with a THC level of 5. The ‘5’ is genetic. The quantities of
20% and 70% are under the grower’s control.

When examining a strain in a seed-bank catalogue one is
guided to check for the THC levels of that plant to understand how
potent the plant is. Many seed sellers and breeders measure their
plants THC levels and give accounts on how much THC their plants
have. Of course many breeders like to exaggerate on how much THC
their plants produce, but some do not. If you wish to know more about
THC levels it is best to consult your seed-bank or breeder for details.

No complete study of cannabinoids has been made public
since this book’s publication. This is because cross breeding produces
so many different results that it is hard to keep track on what is
happening. Some ‘old timer’ strains are still around and have been
tested. This information can be obtained from the larger seed
production companies in Holland. THC testing is also an expensive
process that requires heavy amounts of research.

The other interesting factor is that some plants do not produce
any THC at all. These plants have been genetically engineered (GM)
to produce very low levels of THC and are mainly used by farmers in
some countries who have permission to grow cannabis for hemp
production ONLY. It is best to keep away from these seeds and strains.
They will not get you high. There is project called the PMP (potency
monitoring project) that is carried out by some government-funded
agencies, but the results are questionable.

From the Cannabis Grow Bible By Greg Green

HE LIFE CYCLE OF THE MARIJUANA PLANT

We said before that a plant would grow in three main stages.
Germination, Vegetative growth and flowering. Plants actually grow
in 6 stages. Here is the life cycle of the cannabis plant.

Germination:   

This is the initial stage of growth and occurs when your
seed’s embryo cracks open and the seedling produces a root. This root
fixes itself into the soil and pushes the newborn seeding up and over
the soil surface. Following surface contact two embryonic leaves open
outwards to receive sunlight, pushing the empty seed shell away from
the seedling. It takes anywhere between 12 hours to 3 weeks for seeds
to germinate. Once the plant has reached this stage it goes into the
seedling stage.

Seedling Stage:

After the first pair of embryonic leaves are receiving light
(Figure 2.12), the plant will begin to produce another small set of new
leaves. These leaves are different from the last and may have some
Marijuana characteristics such as the three-rounded finger shaped
points. As the seedling grows, more of these leaves are formed and
bush upwards along with a stem. Some stems are very weak at this
stage and need the support of a small thin wooden stake tied to the
seedling with some fine thread. The seedling stage can last between 1
and 3 weeks. At the end of the seedling stage your plant will have
maybe 4 -8 new leaves. Some of the old bottom leaves may drop off.

Vegetative Growth:

The plant now begins to grow at the rate which its leaves can
produce energy. At this stage the plant needs all the light and food it
can get. It will continue to grow upwards producing new leaves as it
moves along . It will also produce a thicker stem with
thicker branches and with more fingers on the leaves. It will eventually
start to show its sex. When it does this it is time for the plant’s pre-
flowering stage. It can take anywhere between 1 and 5 months for the
plant to hit this next stage.

Pre-flowering:

At this stage the plant slows down in developing its height
and starts to produce more branches and nodes. The plant fills out in
the pre-flowering stage. During this phase of the plant cycle your plant
will start to show a calyx which appears where the branches meet the
stem (nodes). Pre-flowering can take anywhere between 1 day to 2
weeks. (See last page of this book for pre-flowering/calyx illustration)

Flowering:                              

During this stage the plant continues to fill out. The plant will show its
sex clearly. The male plant produces little balls that are clustered
together like grapes. The female plant produces little white/cream
pistils that look like hairs coming out of a pod. Each of the plants will
continue to fill out more and their flowers will continue to grow. It can take anywhere between 4 to 16 weeks for the plant to fully develop its flowers. During this time the male’s pollen sacks would
have burst spreading pollen to the female flowers.

Seed:

The female plant will produce seeds at this point if she has received
viable pollen from a male plant. The seeds grow within the female bud
and can take anywhere between 2 weeks to 16 weeks, to grow to full
maturity. The female pistils may change color before finally bursting
the seedpods, sending them to the soil below. (Breeders like to collect
their seeds before the seedpods burst.)

These are the six stages of the life cycle of a cannabis plant. It
is important to know that if the males are separated from the females
and killed off then the females will not become pollinated. Let us go
back a step and describe what happens here.

Quote from gre greens book

PROPAGATION

What is propagation?

Propagation: 1 The action of breeding or multiplying by natural
processes; procreation, generation, reproduction. 2 The action of
spreading an idea, practice, etc., from place to place. 3 Increase in
amount or extent; enlargement; extension in space or time.

Propagation is ‘The Grow’. However most people treat
propagation as the actual events occurring between the planting of the
seed and the transplant of that seedling to the main grow environment.
Here we will treat propagation as the entire process of growing from
seed to harvest. Propagation also includes the logistics of the grow.

So what are you going to do? Are you going to buy a batch of
10 seeds and grow them all in one go? Are you going to then kill the
males and just smoke the females? Are you going to keep the males
and produce more seeds from the females? How many seeds can a
female plant produce? Should I plant my 10 seeds in one go? What
should I do to guarantee that all my seeds will grow? These are the
questions that you should be asking before you begin to grow and this
is where propagation logistics comes into play. The answers depend
largely on the size of your grow area and what your budget is.

To see a time lapse video of marijuana growing click here:

GENERAL INDOOR GROWING

Light is the most important factor next to choosing your
strain that you must consider. There are two main ways to light your
plants indoors -Natural light and artificial light. Both ways have
advantages and disadvantages.

The first thing you should know is that indoor lights produce
bigger flowers (more bud) than natural window light. This means you
get more THC quantity with artificial lights than you will with natural
sunlight indoors. Even in countries that have hot sun for 6 months of
the year you can still find it hard to produce big buds indoors under
natural light. Some people have grown plants under an attic window
that they open during the dry days. This will grow you bud but not as
much as you would get using an artificial light system. The other side
of the coin is that natural light is free, electricity is not and grow lights
are a little bit expensive to buy and use. They are definitely not as
expensive as it is to run an electric cooker 24 hours a day but they are
little expensive to use all the same.
When using a window grow try to place your plant near a
window that gets the most sunlight. Sun comes up in east and sets in
the west. It travels more north or south depending on which side of the
equator you are. Think about it for awhile. Also remember that you
have the seasons to think about. If you plan on a window grow try to
establish when you want your plant to receive most of its light. You
want your plant to get most of its light during flowering. If July is the
best month for sunlight then you may consider producing your
seedling back in April or May or even as early as late March. Try to
guess when you will get the best weather. Coordinate this with the
flowering times directed by the breeder and you will be able to foresee
your harvest time.

Also remember that people can look up and see your plant if
they are sitting near the window. Do people come to wash your
windows? Also remember that if you have a Sativa plant then they will
get big. Take all these factors into consideration when you are growing
your plants with natural sunlight indoors.

If you are growing indoors then you may have a room or part
of a room that you wish to use such as an attic, closet, basement, spare
bathroom or hot press. These locations nearly always need artificial
light. You may even decide to build a cabinet yourself. There are many
ways to set-up an indoor grow room. We will discuss this later in
detail.

GROWING FACTORS

This is important to bear in mind before you grow your weed.
Have you got the time to take care of your plants? Are you going to be
taking long holidays? Have you got someone you trust to take care of
your plants? And if you do how secure is your grow area? How do the
people you live with feel about this? Can you hide the smell when the
plants start to flower? Are you prepared to pay money on lights and
other grow items? Are you prepared to pay the costs of a higher
electricity bill? Are people going to see your grow room? Are people
going to walk past your grow site outdoors? Is the meter man going to
see your grow room? Is the gas man going to see your grow room? Are
you sure that you really want to do this?
If you are negative on any of these points above then I suggest
that you resolve those issues before you move on.

The next thing I am going to tell you is the most important
thing you will ever hear when growing marijuana. People have lived
their whole lives growing cannabis and have never had an encounter
with the law. It is so simple, but very hard to do. If you can do it then
you are halfway to being an expert grower. Are you ready for it? (The Grow Bible)

Quote from greg greens book

HE INDOOR GROWING OF CANNABIS

There are many ways to grow your cannabis plant indoors.
The two core methods of indoor growing are soil growing and
hydroponics. There is a separate chapter for hydroponics, and so this
chapter will deal with soil growing.
Figure 5.1 -Indoor Grow room. Picture by RealHigh.

There are many ways to grow an indoor soil garden. The most
common indoor set-ups are:
1. Bench growing,
2. SOG growing,
3. ScrOG growing
4. Cabinet growing.
We will discuss these methods in a moment but let us first see what
they all have in common.

LIGHTS

Lights come in all shapes, sizes, wattage and type. A full
indoor grow lighting kit should contain the following items. Bulb,
reflector, ballast, timer and electrical inputs/outputs.
Most lighting kits are open, meaning that no hood or glass
will cover the bulb. It hangs directly under the reflector. The bulb is
fixed into a socket that is attached to the inside of the reflector. That
socket is connected to the ballast. The ballast can be internal or
external. If external there will be a cord leading to the ballast from the
bulb’s socket. The ballast plugs into a domestic light socket like the
one you have in your home. Some ballast types even have a built-in
timer.

When buying a lighting system it is recommend that you buy
a complete system and an extra bulb. Check to make sure that the
lighting system meets safety regulations and has some sort of
guarantee with it.
quote from greg greens book

LIGHT BANDS

Light can be separated into a spectrum, which form the colors
of the rainbow. Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.
Each of these lights mix down to give white light. Artificial lights,
because of their nature, tend to lean towards a tint of one of these
colors when they mix down to form white light.

The electro-magnetic spectrum is a term used in lighting to
describe the distribution of electro-magnetic radiation by reference to
energy. This table roughly gives wavelengths, frequencies and energies
for parts of the spectrum. There is also the color part of the spectrum
that is very important for plants.

Plants are green, which means that Plants absorb light at the
middle of the spectrum (Orange to Indigo). Cannabis plants need this
part of the light spectrum to reach full growing potential. The intensity
of the light is also important. A light that feeds the full bandwidth with
all light spectrums will work very well -like sunlight. When dealing
with artificial lights it is better to choose a light that concentrates its
intensity on the top part of the spectrum. The most common indoor
light systems are called HID lights. We will discuss the full range of
lights that you may come across in some grow rooms.
POOR LIGHTING SYSTEMS

These are the lights you find in use around your house. These
lights come in all sizes and wattage -15 watts to 150 watt. These
lights are not suitable for growing because of their low light intensity
and bad color spectrum.
AVERAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS
Fluorescent Tube Lights:
Figure 5.7 and 5.8 -These are examples of some fluro fixtures and
bulbs that can be bought in most hardware stores.
These lights are the long industrial lights that are found in
many a school and work place. These lights come in nearly all lengths
and sizes. 2 to 10 feet are the main sizes that are out there. They also
run between 10 watts and 300 watts. These lights are okay for growing
but they provide little light and are hard to set up properly. They also
are not in best light spectrum for Cannabis plants to grow in.

Halogen Lights:
Figure 5.9 -A Halogen light.

Halogen lights are the small lights that can be seen on the
outside of factories for flood lighting the grounds during the night.
They are usually small and black. These lights can range anywhere
between 75watts and 4000watts.

Halogens get extremely hot and can provide an unsuitable
condition for growing Cannabis under. They are not recommended
because they are dangerous to use indoors for growing. They are also
not in the best light spectrum for growing Cannabis.

Fluorescent White Tube Lights:

These are not in use much and are very similar to the
Fluorescent lights except they are in the correct growing spectrum.
These lights are not very strong and do not range much above
100watts. They are only recommend for growers who do not want to
grow full flowering cannabis plants.
Figure 5.10 -White Tube Light.
BEST LIGHTING SYSTEMS

Horticultural Lights:

These lights are professional horticultural lights. They are
developed by horticultural lighting companies and are tested to suit
growing plants indoors. These lights are commonly called HID (High
Intensity Discharge). Like the former lights these also come in kits
with bulb, reflector, ballast and timer. They also come in different
wattage and different shapes and sizes. If you want to grow good bud
then you need a HID. A HID is the second most important purchase
you will make next to choosing your strain.

Metal Halide (MH) and Mercury Vapor (MV):

The lights are HID lights and are used for the seedling and
vegetative growth stages of your plant. They can also be used for
flowering and are quite good too. They come in all shapes and sizes
and range from 75W -4000watts. These lights are very common and
are a good kit for the indoor Cannabis grower.

Mercury Vapor is not as common as it used to be. It has
almost been replaced by Metal Halide now. If you have a choice
between the two it is best to stay with the new MH kits. MV also has a
tendency to be slightly out of the optimal spectrum range.
High Pressure Sodium (HPS):

This is the lighting choice of many a Cannabis Cultivator.
These lights come in all shapes and sizes and have a range of 75watts 4000watts.
These lights are in the perfect spectrum for growing
cannabis and come highly recommended.
Figure 5.11 -This is an example of a HPS and also a MH Light
system. There is nothing at face value to Indicate that the light is a
HPS or a MH. To check this out we need to look at the ballast and the
bulb and read what is says about the type of light system that it is. MH
lights tend to give off a blue tone, while HPS tend to give off an
orange tone.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A LIGHT

The first thing to say is that some growers have a MH set-up
for seedlings and vegetative growth and a HPS for flowering. The HPS
is a better flowering lamp, while the MH is a better veg lamp. If we
can only afford one we should get a HPS. Both MH and HPS can be
used for vegetative growth and flowering. However since we are
growing for bud, we should try to get the best HPS we can.

The next thing they look for is the light kit itself. Check to see
that the light is certified and is in good shape. Then check to see if the
light is air-cooled. Some of these lights have a fan built in which keeps
the light cool. If you see this then you know that you are going to need
somewhere to vent your air. This may mean that you need to adjust a
wall in your grow area so that the air is extracted from the light.
Figure 5.12 -This picture shows two air-cooled hoods attached to
their respective air ducts. This photograph is by Chimera.

Lights that are air-cooled (Figure 5.12) tend to last longer and
do not heat up your grow area that much. Most expert growers like to
keep a room at a stable controllable temperature and use these air-
cooled lights to achieve that. If your light is not air-cooled then you
will have to build an air vent and fan in your grow room wall to keep
the temperatures under control. Cannabis leaves will burn if placed too
close to a HID light.
Figure 5.13 -This is a water-cooled light system. These inventions
have been around for awhile but have not caught on that much
because they require a good bit of work. A constant pump of cool
water must be circulated into and out of the light system.

The next thing to check is how the light is supported. Does it
require a light stand or does it require to be hung from the ceiling. In
most cases you will be able to make your own stand if you feel that you
are not willing to fasten a few hooks and chains to your ceiling. Also
check to see if the electrical fittings suit your needs. Will they plug
straight into your system at home or do you need an adapter? Maybe
you might require an extension cord with your purchase. Most HID
kits can only take a specific wattage of bulb and a certain type of bulb.
If you have a 600W HPS system, then you should only use 600W HPS
bulbs. Some lighting kits have something called a ’switchable ballast’

The next thing to look for is the guarantee. Check to see what
the manufacturer has said about this light and how long the guarantee
is for. Last but not least is the most important part of your light. The
wattage and lumens.

WATTAGE AND LUMENS

HID Lights can range anywhere between 75W and 4000W. In
general the stronger the wattage the more light that bulb will produce.
However we must also consider another factor and that factor is called
Lumens. Lumens are the correct way of measuring how much light per
square foot a bulb emits. Lumens and wattage do go hand in hand but
can vary a large amount between systems. The better the lighting kit,
the better the lumens it will cast. Lumens have more to do with the
design of the light than the wattage of the light itself. Some 600W
lights may give the same lumens as a 400W light. Have a look at this
134
chart:

LAMP TYPE
M.V
WATTS
175
LUMENS
8000
M.H 400 36000
H.P.S 600 45000
H.P.S 600 36000

This is interesting because we have two types of HPS lights
using the same bulb wattage and one of the types is casting more
Lumens than the other. The reason for this is that the higher lumens
kit is better quality than the other. So we now know that some lighting
kits produce better Lumens than others. Check through HID lighting
kits and look at how many lumens they cast. This is a good Indicator
of how professional that light is. Also a 4000W HID is too much for
any grow room. A 1K (1000W) bulb is the maximum light wattage you
should purchase. Use several 1K bulbs if you need more light. A 4K
bulb will bleach Cannabis and is very hot.

LUMENS AND MARIJUANA GROWING

Now for the big question. How many Lumens do I need? Well
this depends on three things. (1) How much do you want to spend? (2)
How many plants do you have? (3) How big is your grow area?
You do not want to go less than 2500 Lumens, even for one
plant. You want to get the best so you need to hit the 45000 mark or
more. In general one light that casts 45000 lumens is enough to cover
a workspace of about 3 feet by 3 feet. This is quite an average space
and you will probably get anything between 6 -9 plants in that area.
Again we must keep in mind the strain that we are growing. One large
Sativa plant can cover a 9 square foot grow area in no time. Short
Indica plants are different. You can get maybe 12 plants into a 9
square foot grow area. If you really want to pump up your plants then
you may consider a lamp that casts 100,000 Lumens or more. If you
want a bigger grow area then you may consider 2 lamps that cast
100,000 Lumens each. All is relative to how much you want to grow
and the size of your grow room.

Let’s say for the record that we would like to grow 4 plants.
Then what we should aim for is a light that casts 45000 Lumens. This
means we should buy a 600-Watt HID system. Let’s say we want to
pump up our available light to around 60,000 Lumens. This means we
should buy a 1000-Watt HID system. If our area is bigger we might
need 2 or more 1000-watt HID lights to achieve this. It is all very
respective to the 3 elements we mentioned above.

There is nothing wrong if you want to use a 1000-watt HID
light on 2 plants. They will grow bigger and better. The only thing is,
do we really want to spend all that money on the light and the
electricity bill? HID lights range anywhere between $220/£200 and
$700/£670 for a full kit. You may be able to buy the parts and build
your own, but this is only recommended if you have some experience
with lights first. A 600W HPS kit should cost about $250/£230. This is
money well spent if you want great plants with big buds.

Over time you will understand more about grow rooms and
how to light them properly. With experience you should be able to tell
what light suits your needs. As a general rule, when in doubt buy a
400W HPS or better. Even a 250W HPS can get you good-sized buds
but go below that mark and you will only end up with less than
average results.

LIGHTING FACTORS AND HOW TO GET THE MOST
FROM YOUR LIGHT

The reflector part of the lighting kit can also cause a
difference in lumens cast between two different systems using the same
bulb. The reflector does it exactly what is says. It reflects light. The
other thing to consider is that when the light bounces off the reflector
it is going to fall down on your plant. When it does your plants will
absorb this light. Not all of the available light is picked up by the plant
and some of the light will escape and reflect off your workbench. Your
bench may even absorb some of the light. This is your light that you
are spending money on so why not try and do something about saving
this escaping light. Some reflectors are very good and some are very
poor. Reflectors should not be any color other than white or polished
metal. Some reflectors may have a small green film of plastic covering
their insides. Remove this if you can. It should just pull off like a piece
of tape.

Many people get mirrors or tin foil and line their grow area
with it. This is NOT good. MIRRORS ABSORB LIGHT. This
means that only a small amount of your light is reflected back towards
your plant. What you need is something white. White is the best color
for reflecting light, period. Not shiny glossy white, just plain ‘flat’
white. A white wall will reflect more light than a mirror will. Many
growers like to paint the walls of their grow ‘flat’ white. This helps a
lot. Other people like to line their grow area with the back end of tin
foil wrapping (the white side). This is okay, but make sure that you use
the white side and not the shiny side.

A substance which looks like a tin foil sheet, called Mylar
(Fig. 5.15), is very popular in cannabis grow rooms. Instead of using
white walls you can use this reflective alternative. Most DIY and
hardware stores will sell it in roles.
Figure 5.15 -Mylar comes in roles like this.
Figure 5.16 -Mylar in the grow room by Shipperke

It is also recommend that you keep a spare bulb at all times in
case your other bulb dies. It is no good going down to the local
hardware store only to find that they are out of the bulb type that you
need. This could leave your plants without light for along time.

It is also wise to remember that plants need
water and lights use electricity. Both these factors when
mixed are extremely dangerous. Be safe and wise and
keep all electrical outlets away from your plants and any
liquids that you use.

Okay so you have your grow area set-up with all your security
arrangements met. You have your lights set up and hanging down over
your grow area. You also have some form of light reflection around
your plants to help conserve your light. Your seed-bank has sent you
your seeds and you have germinated them. They are on a tray next to
you and you are preparing to transplant them into larger pots. The
larger pot will stay with the plant throughout its life cycle and you
need to provide the best medium possible in which your plant will
grow.(quote from Greg greens BookThe Grow Bible)

WAYS TO GERMINATE YOUR SEEDS

Seeds can be germinated in a number of ways. Some ways
guarantee more success than others. It is recommended that you
consider the ‘rockwool SBS propagation tray’ method.
:

This is a method whereby the seeds are placed down in moist
soil about 3mm or the length of the seed from the surface. The soil is
kept moist (Not soaking wet) by sprinkling water over it once a day.
This has a moderate success rate. Out of 10 seeds only 7 -8 may
germinate.

Seed towel propagation:
damp towel or on a damp piece of cotton wool. Cheesecloth may also
be used. The seed is then covered with more damp wool or a damp
towel. The towel/wool must be kept moist at all times. If the material
dries out it may damage the seeds. Everyday check to see if the seeds
have started to produce any roots. If they have then immediately
transfer the seedling to a grow medium (such as soil) using a pair of
tweezers. Do not touch the root. This has a moderate to high success
rate. Out of 10 seeds 8 -9 may germinate. The problem with this
method is that sometimes the transplant can cause the seedling to go
into shock. This can kill the germination process leaving you with
nothing. With practice you can get all your seeds to germinate.

Propagation kits:

This is a method whereby the seeds are placed in small unit,
called a seed or clone propagator, which is designed to help plants
germinate. One such kit is called a rockwool SBS Propagation Tray.
Some of these kits can be heated and look like a miniature greenhouse.
At the bottom of the tray is a small area where water, or even better
‘some germination hormone’ is poured. Small grow cubes called
rockwool cubes are placed into slots in the tray, which automatically
dips the rockwool into the solution (Figure 3.8). The seeds are placed
into tiny holes in the cubes and the cover is then put back on the unit.

This has a very high success rate. All the seeds can sometimes
germinate and in most cases often do. The disadvantage to this method
is that you need to spend money on the tray, rockwool and grow
fertilizers. The price of the tray is about $10/£10, the rockwool cubes
$5/£5, the grow fertilizers $5/£5. If you have spent $50/£50 on seeds
then why not spend the extra $20/£20 on getting a small kit together
like this. The other advantage is that you can use this same tray to help
root your clones.

DANGERS WHEN PROPAGATING SEEDS

Drafts are a killer and will stunt germination. Always make
sure that you keep your germinating seeds away from any open
windows or fans. Also make sure that the room is kept warm. A cold
room can inhibit your germination rates. The other thing to look out
for when using germination fertilizers is to make sure that your
mixture is correct. Do not use high doses of fertilizers with seedlings.
In fact water is all seedlings should need. You do not need to add
anything. Some people do use germination solutions though, but make
sure that you keep these solution strengths down low. An incorrect
mixture can burn your seedlings and cause them to fail. Another thing
to do is to leave your seeds alone to grow. Do not go fiddling with
them, hence the term ‘digging up your seeds’. Some people tend to
disturb the soil to see how their seeds are doing. This is a bad move
and can break or even damage the seed and root. The other thing to
keep in mind is that some strains produce seedlings that have weak
stems. This means that the seedling may tend to lean, sometime more
than 90 degrees, to the left or right. If you find that your seedlings
need support then use a small stick to hold your seedling up. Tie the
stem to the stick using a piece of thread. Never tie the thread above a
growing shoot or the seedling will push up against the thread and rip
itself. You may continue to use a stick to support your plant as it
grows. If your plant still has a weak stem during vegetative growth it is
recommended that you give the base of the stem a little shake every
morning and evening. This will help the plant to develop a more solid
stem. Outdoors the wind shakes a plant and causes it to develop this
solid stem. You can fake the wind by doing this mildly every morning
for two or three seconds. However if you read on you will find that
indoor fans help do this. (Note: Never bring a stick from outdoors
indoors for support as the stick may have some bugs on it. Some bugs
such as spider mites can go undetected in their incubation nests inside
the wood.)
Seeds must also be viable if they are going to germinate.
Never use white seeds. These are immature. Find seeds that have white
and grey markings or another color apart from white.

Crushed seeds will also not germinate. Old seeds may have
trouble germinating. Always try to use the best seeds you can find.

The above is a quote from Greg Greens BOOK!

Hydroponic cultivation  (PER WIKIPEDIA.COM)

Hydroponics

Hydroponic cultivation generally occurs indoors, although there is no practical obstacle to growing outdoors. In general, it consists of a non-soil medium which is exposed to a nutrient and water flow.

There are many types of hydroponic systems. If the nutrient solution floods the loose growing medium and recedes for aeration, this is an ebb and flow or flood and drain system. Systems that gradually drip solution onto the medium are drip systems. Systems that intermittently spray roots floating in air are called aeroponic systems. If aerated water runs down a channel lined with a film of rooting medium, this is a nutrient film technique system. A series of tubes intermittently running high flow nutrient solution into the tops of growing containers use a top feed system.

Hydroponic systems greatly increase aeration of plant roots, and increase control of nutrient uptake. Hydroponic systems are decidedly more difficult to operate for the amateur or hobby grower, as over-fertilization is common, because there is no soil to act as a nutrient buffer. For this reason, many growers now use coconut fibre as a soilless medium due to its high drainage and buffering capabilities, making it almost impossible to over-fertilize. Additionally, if a hydroponic system fails, the crop has a high probability of dying as the roots rapidly dry out (this is especially true of aeroponic systems). However, properly operated hydroponic systems, with other factors at an optimum, have been proven to outperform soil under the same environmental circumstances.

In marijuana culture, some believe that hydroponically cultivated marijuana can have fewer byproducts in the resultant smoke and ash, providing for a cleaner and healthier smoke. Of course, the veracity of such claims is suspect, as with proper pre-harvest flushing, and post-harvest drying and curing, there would be nothing to indicate an inherent difference in harmful content between soil and soilless mediums. This itself is controversial, as many growers/botanists believe any excess nutrients are broken down into sugars during the drying and curing processes, effectively killing the plant by starving it of nutrients.

COOL LINKS

About the Book

This book will focus on improving marijuana through the use of Indoor hydroponics. The techniques mentioned in this book are for the medicinal uses of cannabis and for those legally able to grow it. 

Indoor-Hydroponic gardening is a lot like building a house, you have all the necessary supplies to build the house: wood, nails, brick mortar and equipment.  You have your blue prints, but this does not make a house.  It makes a pile of rubbish.  You have to put the supplies together in the correct order with skilled labor in order to end up with a house. In a sense, this is what Indoor-Hydroponic gardening is like.  You must know how to properly utilize your supplies and equipment-this is what a guide like this is for! It enables you to finish with a house instead of a pile of rubbish.

If you are new to Hydroponics here is what wiki-pedia has to say-

“Hydroponics (from the Greek words hydro (water) and ponos (labour)) is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions instead of soil. Terrestrial plants may be grown with their roots in the mineral nutrient solution only or in an inert medium, such as perlite, gravel or mineral wool. A variety of techniques exist.

Plant physiology researchers discovered in the 19th century that plants absorb essential mineral nutrients as inorganic ions in water. In natural conditions, soil acts as a mineral nutrient reservoir but the soil itself is not essential to plant growth. When the mineral nutrients in the soil dissolve in water, plant roots are able to absorb them. When the required mineral nutrients are introduced into a plant’s water supply artificially, soil is no longer required for the plant to thrive. Almost any terrestrial plant will grow with hydroponics, but some will do better than others. It is also very easy to do; the activity is often undertaken by very young children with such plants as watercress. Hydroponics is also a standard technique in biology research and teaching and a popular hobby.

Normally referred to as the manufacturing of a controlled substance, it is defined as the growing, planting, or harvesting of cannabis anywhere.  The government defines a single plant as a system having functional leaves and roots.  If the plant, however, has multiple stems protruding from a single root system, it is considered as a single plant.  In contrast, each stalk supported by its own root system is considered to be a single plant.  Therefore, if you have multiple plants intertwined, they will be counted as multiple plants.  The government also considers both male and female plants as equals.  This means that you can get in just as much trouble for a male plant as you would a female plant.

All a state needs to get a cultivation conviction is to prove you had prior knowledge of the existing plant(s) and that you were intending to use the plant(s) in some way.  They can do this relatively easily if you are found having anything that is used to grow marijuana, for example; seeds, chemicals, shears, part of the plant, bags. e.c.t…

Federal Laws

          The federal courts supersede the state court, which basically means that the federal courts set the limits or boundaries in relation to the sentencing phase of a conviction.  This is a nationalized attempt to level local power in order to help avoid individual discrimination and insure fair, and just sentencing.    It sets a minimum and a maximum sentence-usually combined with some sort of fine.  These boundaries must be adhered to by all states; and every sentence must fall in between the minimum and the maximum sentence, unless special circumstances are presented. It is important to realize that it is possible to be prosecuted twice for the same crime, both under federal law and then the state law.  These two bodies of law enforcement are considered separate which means that you could have two different trials, in two different courts; hence you can receive two sentences, but that rarely happens.

Receiving the Minimum Sentence

 While abstinence is the best way to insure a sentence of zero, this just isn’t possible for a zealous grower. It is possible to avoid receiving the maximum sentence if you meet any two of the following three requirements; One, you did not use violence; two, you were not the leader of the operation, or three, you tell on someone else about any crime-it does not have to necessarily be the crime you were involved in.  However, saving your own ass usually looks good from behind the bars, but telling on someone else could potentially be very detrimental to your health. So you might want to thoroughly think about it before you sacrifice someone else to save yourself.  In the end you might actually cause yourself more grief. Hopefully you have not attempted to grow illegally.

Possession

Nine times out of ten possession is what a cropper is charged with simply because most do not get caught growing it. Usually they get busted moving or storing it (base on conviction rates).  This crime is not as serious a manufacturing, but it’s still severe.

The federal penalty for POSSESSION based on a first offense and a personally useable amount only- is usually a cakewalk compared to a repeat offender’s punishment.  For the first offense, the federal laws state: you shall receive a sentence that is no more than one year in jail; and a fine that does not exceed 1000 dollars. More than likely you will receive probation.  It is possible to get probation only if you have never been convicted of a drug offense before.

For a second or third offender, your punishments will drastically increase.  If you are a second time offender the sentence will be between 10 days and two years and a fine not to exceed 2500 dollars.  They say the third time is the charm and you should have learn your lesson by now because you will definitely be in jail between 90 days and three years, combined with a fine of 5000 dollars.

Hydroponics

At the heart of cannabis cultivation is the cutting-edge growth technique Hydroponics.  Hydroponics is, simply put, growing plants without soil.  The discovery was made years ago that it was not the actual soil that marijuana plants needed in order to grow, but instead they needed the mineral nutrients contained in the soil. Basically hydroponics is just another way of providing all the nutrients needed by a plant. These nutrients are supplied to the plant in a liquid solution that is absorbed by the roots. Thus now it is well known to most gardeners that all plants have the same basic nutritional needs and as long as these nutritional needs are met, soil is no longer necessary. In fact, normal soil may harbor pathogens and other harmful organisms that can damage marijuana plants. 

An additional benefit of hydroponics is that the plants often grow faster and healthier because nutrients are immediately available, and therefore can be assimilated quicker. 

This method of cultivation can be very rewarding, in many ways, but can be most demanding.    If you have a legitimate reason to grow, you should try to do it Hydroponically and Indoors, but remember it can be very demanding and is not for the genitally lazy.

State Laws

As most of you know the penalties for marijuana related crimes varies from state to state.  And while this chapter is more specific, with regard to the distinctiveness of state laws, it is still presented in a generalized manner. We stress the words GENERAL because, ultimately, every case is different. And ultimately, it is impossible to configure ones exact sentence with a chart. It is possible to present you with the possibilities, though.  Now, remember that the punishments can vary depending on a variety of factors and circumstances. Things such as previous convictions, previous drug related charges, and the degree of any other previous or current charges can impact your punishment

Medical Uses of Marijuana

Not shockingly, marijuana has been considered a cure-all for centuries by many.  As you may well know, when smoked, the chemicals in the plant give the user a feeling of well-being.  This is due to the large amounts of alkaloids present in the plant, which affect the nervous system, in such away, as to alleviate symptoms of an illness temporarily.  Marijuana only relieves the pains associated with disease.  In no way has science proven that it out right cures any disease, at least up to this point.  However, it is not fallacious to assume that it can help the body heal itself.  There seems to be a correlation between the illusions of well-being that smoking pot produces, and real rapid healing. The medicinal properties seem to not be so much a direct cure, but rather an indirect one.  It has the ability to alter the way one feels, tricking their body to feel euphoric and thus enables the human body to produce natural healing chemicals.   These chemicals stimulate the human body to produce its own hormones that allow the user to heal naturally.  While this explanation seems to be more along the lines of a “New-Age” medical cure, something akin to the theory that magnets cure everything. The facts do speak for themselves. It really works- for those who need it!

It is important to recognize that different strains of marijuana will affect the patient differently- some better and some worse. The only way to know which one is best for the patient is through lots of experimentation.   The different concentration of THC, CBN and other chemicals is the main cause for the varying effects.  No one has yet figured a dosage of THC for varying diseases.  More medical research is needed!

Though the use of hydroponics you will be able to improve the strength of the perceived good chemicals, without any major increase in the harmful chemicals.

The scientific community does acknowledge that there is an increase in carcinogens when cannabis is grown hydroponicly.  However, the results of the tests were so miniscule, scientist have determined the increase in chemicals to be negligible.

Marijuana Addiction

Marijuana addiction has clear signs and indicators and this page will discuss this in depth. Marijuana addiction is simply an uncontrollable urge to possess and use the drug. Those with marijuana addiction are not able to stop using the drug even if they wish. Often a person with marijuana addiction will make continuous excuses about why now is not a good time to stop using the drug. Such people are not alone. Marijuana addiction is a disease that affects millions of people every year.

There is a good reason why admission to rehabilitation facilities has doubled for marijuana addiction. The potency of the drug continues to get more powerful and studies show that teens can get a hold of marijuana often easier than alcohol. Even those who seek treatment for drugs that are perceived has “harder” like heroin or cocaine will often acknowledge that marijuana is their primary drug of choice.

Marijuana addiction has the same characteristics as any other addiction to other drugs including alcohol, tobacco or even caffeine. The frequent obsession with the drug, thinking about it all the time, where to get it, when to get it, is there enough, is it good enough, will I have the money for more are frequently asked questions. Another trait of marijuana addiction is the physical craving that comes when the body adapts to the drug and begins to develop a tolerance to it. Anyone who has been smoking marijuana for awhile can tell that they must smoke more now to feel the same effect that just a few hits used to produce. It’s not about the quality of the weed; it’s the bodies’ defense mechanism as it readjusts to keep balance with the frequent supply of new chemicals being delivered by the pot.

Consequences of marijuana addiction start to take toll when the user continues to use marijuana even in the event of health or social consequences. Memory and learning problems may be causing problems at work or even result in losing a job because of high absenteeism. Increasing isolation from friends and family often puts heavy strain on relationships with loved ones. There is a vicious cycle to marijuana addiction in which these problems are often used as a rational to smoke even more pot. A trap that many fall into is that the drug that is causing the problem becomes the solution to the problem it caused

Marijuana Detox

Marijuana detox is a medical description for the reason that marijuana detox is a medical process. Marijuana detox is the detoxification of the body of the effects of marijuana. Chronic users of the often-called pot, weed, hash, chronic, bud etc, often require marijuana detox before real recovery and abstinence can begin. Any chronic user of marijuana who has been unable to quit can appreciate the intentions of marijuana detox. Marijuana detox is often the first stage of a successful recovery plan because it helps clear the mind and focus on the action required of rehabilitation.

Chronic use of marijuana can lead to physical and emotional dependence on the drug. For those who are susceptible to marijuana addiction, dependence can develop very quickly. Indicators for marijuana addiction tendencies include having family members who are alcoholics or drug addicts. Many people who are addicted to marijuana report having an instant attraction to the drug from the first use.

Whether you need marijuana detox because of a lifetime of usage or marijuana detox for the last few months of heavy usage doesn’t matter. The important thing is that you recognize that you are no longer willing to go on as you have been-Isolating from friends and family, missing out on important occasions and events. Perhaps difficulties are becoming unbearable at work or you have lost a job due to marijuana dependency. An increase of learning difficulties and memory problems due to repeated marijuana use results in dropping out of school and abandoning goals.

Marijuana addiction is a very real disease that always gets worse for the addict. Continuous obsession about the drug consumes much of the day. Preparing it, seeking it out, making sure you have enough money to buy it even before the phone bill or gas bill. These are not easy habits to break.

Marijuana Side Effects

Marijuana side effects come from smoking or consuming the drug and marijuana side effects influence the mind and body of the user. Marijuana side effects can be as seemingly innocent as an increased appetite to as life threatening as lung cancer. Increased likelihood for accidents is also one of the marijuana side effects. Studies show that 6 to 11 percent of fatal accidents are contributed to by marijuana side effects. Other external marijuana side effects include legal problems, work and financial problems and troubles at home.

Marijuana is most often smoked but can be eaten or steeped in tea to drink. Most over-doses occur actually when the drug is eaten because it is easier to consume a large dose all at once. Marijuana side effects from an overdose include toxic psychosis including hallucinations, delusions and a loss of self-identification. When smoked, marijuana is rolled up into a cigarette called a joint or smoked in a pipe or water pipe called a bong. Marijuana has many street names like pot, hash, chronic and there are many paraphernalia available to smoke it.

Many may not have severe marijuana side effects from taking the drug but many people will. Marijuana side effects include physical problems like breathing difficulties and deteriorating physical abilities. Despite a popular belief, marijuana side effects speed up the heart, blood and breathing rate. The body is taxed more and this speeds up the aging process just like methamphetamines do. The marijuana side effects from this extra exertion on the body include a higher risk for lung cancer, heart attacks and strokes.

Marijuana side effects also wreak havoc on the brain when the drug is used habitually. The natural chemical balance of the brain is disrupted affecting the pleasure centers and regulatory systems. The ability to learn, remember and adapt quickly to changes is impaired by marijuana use. Depression often occurs with marijuana usage, which feeds into the cycle of more drug use to treat the pain created by drug use. This cycle of addiction is very powerful and users soon find that they cannot stop using the drug even if they want to.

Marijuana addiction is a progressive disease and marijuana side effects include withdrawal and obsessive thought with the drug when it is not made available. Addiction is identified as a compulsive, uncontrollable craving for the drug even with pending negative consequences. Often users will attempt to stop smoking marijuana for an important event such as a job interview or court hearing and find themselves using very close or just before the event. This act goes beyond a flexing of willpower. This describes being enveloped by a disease that has taken control and needs to be treated.

Marijuana Dangers

Marijuana dangers are usually listed as they affect the physical body and mind and marijuana dangers are often associated with emotional problems as well. Marijuana dangers are often reported in fluctuating waves. Some say there are more marijuana dangers than ever right now due to the increased potency of the drug. Others say marijuana dangers aren’t as bad and can even be used for medical purposes (see our medical marijuana page). This page isn’t going to convince anyone of the marijuana dangers. Our intention here is to help those who are already suffering the consequences of marijuana dangers and are wondering where they can find help.

Millions of people use marijuana habitually and many are quite addicted to the drug. Addiction is a disease and like any disease, tears away at the mind and body of the sufferer. Many pot smokers did not fully understand marijuana dangers as they began to smoke the drug early in life. Some pot smokers find themselves using the drug more than they would like and find it interfering with school, work and relationships with family and friends. This cycle can feed off of itself in a negative way causing more use of the drug and further consequences.

Many studies of marijuana dangers associate repeated use of the drug with lower test scores and academic abilities. On the job, workers who smoke pot often miss more work, have more accidents and are more likely to lose their job.

On emotional level marijuana dangers include isolation, depression and an increase in anxiety. Uncomfortable feelings and fear also lead to more use of the drug that can make for more problems. Studies show that over time, individuals who become physically and/or emotionally dependent on marijuana can find that they are falling behind on basic fundamental life skills that are being acquired by peers in the same age range. This can lead to self-esteem problems as self-reinforcement abilities deteriorate and confidence diminishes. So why doesn’t the pot smoker stop smoking pot?

Another one of the marijuana dangers is physical dependence on the drug. Many people try to stop over and over but are overwhelmed by anxiety, irritability and sleeping difficulties. Physical dependence is marked by withdrawal symptoms when the drug is removed. The marijuana dangers include the bodies’ adaptation to an almost continuous presence of the drug in its system. The brain adapts to the pain reducing reaction to the drug and its other analgesic effects like inducing sleep. Those who have only tried smoking pot once or twice might be amazed that anybody could function on the drug at all. But those who have been smoking the drug for months, and years, have become accustom to its effects and can often hide the fact that they are high at all.

This tolerance to the drug is yet another one of the marijuana dangers. Pot smokers who must smoke much more of the drug to feel the same affect that just a little used to provide. This leads to more intake of smoke which can cause more damage to the lungs and respiratory system.

One of the biggest marijuana dangers can just be the loss of hope from the frustration that you can’t seem to quit on your own. Fortunately there is help. Spencer Recovery Centers offers an effective answer to all of the marijuana dangers. Rehabilitation and recovery from marijuana dependency is possible with therapeutic and medical assistance. The doctors and counselors of Spencer Recovery Centers have helped many clients recover from their dependency on marijuana, alcohol, and other drugs. Spencer facilities are first rate, located along scenic beaches of California and Florida, they offer a safe haven to get through the tough times and explore what is really important.

Addiction to marijuana is a very real disease with symptoms and characterized by progression. If you or a loved one is unable to stop smoking marijuana even after swearing off the stuff forever, this is an indication of physical dependence. The negative effects may already be apparent. Loss of memory and ability to concentrate is one effect. A persistent or reoccurring cough is another. Continued use of marijuana can lead to cancer of the head, throat, lungs or mouth.

The social consequences can be just as damaging. Loss of friends, family, spouse, children can all come as a result of marijuana dependency and the isolation that comes from a fixation on the drug. The mental obsession and physical craving severely impedes one’s ability to perform at work and often results in job loss. Studies show that students who smoke marijuana do poorly at school compared to their classmates and workers who smoke pot have higher absences and accidents.

Marijuana Treatment

Marijuana treatment is in higher demand than ever because more people are seeking marijuana treatment for their dependency on the drug. Marijuana treatment is an effective answer to marijuana dependence. If you want to stop using pot, take action and seek marijuana treatment today.

Marijuana addiction spans all generational, economic and race lines. Men, women and teens alike can find themselves in the grips of addiction. Addiction is an ailment of the mind and body. The body develops a tolerance for marijuana and becomes dependent on it. This isn’t just a passing desire to get high, but rather a physical craving the body goes through like hunger or thirst. In addition to the physical dependence the brains chemicals are disrupted and new neurological pathways develop based on the continued use of marijuana. These new pathways affect the pleasure centers and can cause depression and anxiety when attempts are made to quit. Marijuana treatment must address the mind and body changes in order to be effective. Education focuses on behavior patterns such as triggers and situations that allow for marijuana use. Often recognizing these dangerous patterns is a solid beginning to changing them.  (for more info visit)

(http://www.marijuana-addiction.net/)

How to Choose Your Plant Type

It is vital that you start with a selection of cannabis that has good genetics.  Genetics determine: the potency, growth rate, maturation time, and the resistance to fungus, and pests attacks.  The traits of the strain you wish to grow should be researched and a determination made based on the desired characteristics.  Moreover, it is extremely important to choose a type of cannabis that is suited for indoor growth- if you are growing indoors, of course?

Indica

We have found, throughout the years of watching many different croppers, grow many different strains, that the best variety of marijuana to cultivate indoors is the Indica strain. It’s short, broad, and bright colored leaves make it effortless to identify.  This particular strain of marijuana originated in Central Asia, and is one of the most used and most sought after strains in the world.  It is ideal for indoor gardening because they can handle sudden changes in the environment.   These changes can range from equipment failures, to mistakes in the nutrient solution, and even short-term dramatic climate changes like freezing. This strain is known for its ability to endure!  This type of cannabis remains relatively short, height wise, compared to the other kinds of marijuana. This makes it ideal for a person (such as you) who is trying to maximize all of their growing space.  Not to mention, the Indica plant matures quickly and has a large harvesting capacity.  The only draw back to these wide leaved plants is that they are difficult to clone.

How A Grow Room Should Be Set Up

Now this is where we divide the boys from the men. This is where the real work begins; the laying of the pipe, so to speak, the hard work. The base and foundation of any grow operation is setting up the grow area.  One of the first aspects, pertaining to setting up a grow room; to consider, is the possibility of environmental instability.  For example, you do not want to place a grow room in an environment that fluctuates from extreme cold to extreme hot.  Hence, it is exceedingly important to secure a locale that is relatively stable, with regard to the natural temperature and humidity of said area.  If the natural environment, where you intend to grow, has extreme changes in heat or humidity, then should not attempt to grow in that vicinity.  It is a stark fact that such fluctuations in the environment cause cannabis plants to either die or become ill.  It is also just as important to inspect other natural, but unwelcome, aspects of the environment like: bugs, pests, mold-these too can heavily impair your plants.

After finding a suitable location for your grow room, you should check to make sure you have the necessary equipment to control the atmosphere. The necessary paraphernalia to control an area are: a light supply, correct water and nutrient supply amount, air movement, and a ready source of carbon dioxide. If required, it is also important to have environmental control devices (i.e. dehumidifiers, heaters, coolers.) 

Beginning

Once you have all the essential equipment, it is time to prepare your growing area.  Initially you must seal off every opening that would permit outside light to enter the grow room.  Seal every single window/opening up with black plastic and duct tape.  In the event black plastic must cover a window that could possibly be seen by some hungry onlookers, you should place blinds in front of it, to produce the illusion of a plain dark room. Hopefully your company has enough money to bypass all of this and just grow it in a secure facility. If so, disregard the hungry onlooker reference.

After you have assured that no light will enter or escape, it is time to install any light reflective material, i.e. white paint or Mylar.  Paint is less expensive, so use that if you are trying to keep your overhead costs down. If choose white paint, simply paint over the stable plastic-which should be fastened to the wall. If on the other hand, you choose Mylar, or any other type of material. You must fasten it to the wall, on top of the black plastic, with nails, staples, or thumb tacks.

Lights

Once you have completed the installation of your reflective material(s) you should install your light system.  Positioning your light system usually requires hanging your lights, with chains, from a ceiling-or attaching it to a light mover.  Your light system must be interchangeable with other spectrums, and must be able to be raised, or be lowered, according to the height of the plant. In other words, it should be easy to adjust, change, or otherwise move-without disturbing the plants.  

One of the simplest techniques, used to make it possible to interchange light types, is to create temporary rafters.  To do this you need to fasten two-by-fours to the walls of the room, with metal supports that are obtained at any local hard ware store.  Subsequently, you fasten screw-in-hooks to the bottom of the two-by-fours, facing downward, so that chains can be hung from them. Next, you place climber hooks on the end of the chains that will be connecting directly to the lights.  Now, you just simply hook up the lights to the correct ballast and keep them hanging at a relatively low position. This will allow you to adjust the light source up or down and it makes it very easy to exchange light sources. This advice is pretty much void if you are using a single light source, which only needs to move vertically, and dose not have to be exchanged with any other spectrum. 

Ventilation

The next step is to install your ventilation system (this is discussed in a later page in detail), so refer to it.  The general idea is to have air circulation, to prevent the air from becoming stale, and to shift heat from inside the grow room to the outside. At minimum, your ventilation system needs to perform the three functions mentioned above.

Carbon Dioxide System

After you have taken care of the ventilation, it is time to install your carbon dioxide system.  It is imperative to make sure that the carbon dioxide will be distributed evenly throughout the garden, and that it is only distributed when the ventilation system is off.  In order to insure even distribution of CO₂ you should purchase a distribution kit.  This kit is composed of thin, hole- containing tubes, that are draped atop the grow room.  It is not tremendously necessary to purchase a distribution kit, but you should figure a way to evenly distribute theCO₂ if you choose to add it to your grow room.  

At this point you have your CO₂ system in place, if you are choosing to install one. Now it is time to ensure the CO₂ only distributes when the ventilation system is off.  There are three ways to do this.  One you could uses electronic timers that turn one system on when the other is off; or two, you could manually turn the CO₂ on when the ventilation is off.  The second choice requires your undivided attention, daily, and is time consuming. While we prefer the first method it is really your preference. The third way is to hook everything up to one of those expensive control boxes that automatically disperses CO₂.

System

Now it is time to position your hydroponic grow system.  Make sure you have all the parts necessary, and have assembled the system.  It is important to contemplate the placement of your system, before you actually put it in. Make sure you can easily access the reservoir(s) for exchanging water, nutrients and adjusting the pH. Once you have determined the right position, and have installed your system, you need to make sure it does not leak.  Run pretest to confirm this.

Gauges

Subsequently, you want to install your gauges, control boxes, thermometers, and dispersion kit controls-included.  Install these in easy to reach places, so that you can change or adjust them with little interruption to the plants. Many have found that it is helpful to place these along the walls of the room.  After you have read the directions of each system, and have hooked them up, you should do a test run.

Sanitize

The next step is to sanitize your garden with a five percent bleach solution made from five percent bleach and ninety-five percent water.

In consummation, these guidelines are just that, guidelines. Nothing is written in stone, so feel free to follow the order we set forth according to your own needs. Every step dose not have to be born inside the womb of the preceding step.  However, as a general rule of thumb, it is best to follow the sequencing we have suggested, especially if you are a novice cropper.  Step one, Step two-do this then that, so on and so forth.  It is in your best interest!

After you sanitize your grow room you need to install any extra equipment you have, and then sanitize again.

Learn about The Hydroponic Bible

How A Marijuana Grow Room Should Be Set Up VIDEO

Ventilation and Air Circulation

Ventilation is very important to the indoor gardener because it keeps the levels of carbon dioxide, heat, and humidity at optimal range.  It is vital to set up your ventilation system to vent when your garden is not distributing carbon dioxide. 

In the beginning you need to calculate the volume of your room (discussed in CO₂ chapter), this will tell you the volume of the air you need to remove to completely vent your room.  You then need to buy a venting fan that will suck out that much volume in less than ten minutes.  The ten-minute rule is simply implemented in order to be efficient, it is not absolutely necessary. 

After that you place the vent fan(s) close to the ceiling, which will simultaneously allow heat to escape while permitting the heavier carbon dioxide gas to remain in the grow room. If it is placed close to the ground you will be venting CO₂ and leaving the heat behind.  If you do it that way, you will end up with an inefficient, humid garden that is wasting CO₂

Growing Mediums

            In order to serve as a suitable replacement for soil, the substrate must be capable of supporting the root system, accumulating moisture and nutrients. It should be inert, free of insects and diseases, and durable.

Moreover, the substrate should permit adequate aeration of the roots, and have first-rate drainage ability. Plants roots need sufficient access to oxygen from the air, in order to grow and take up water and nutrients. Poor drainage can lead to decreased growth, stunting, wilting, and discoloration of the leaves- in the worst cases “drowning the plant.”

There are several different types of growing mediums used in hydroponic gardening, none of which are soil.  These mediums are considered to be inert because alone they have no nutritional value.  As a substitute, a nutrient solution is supplied to them by some means.  The most popular mediums for hydroponics are Rockwool, Gro-rox, Vermiculite, Perlite, and Coconut fiber.  Sand and gravel are also used but must be thoroughly cleaned before use, which is a problem in its self.  Each of these substances differs in size, volume, and color. But all of them are highly suitable for hydroponics.

Rockwool

This is probably the most commonly used medium in hydro systems.  It is available in a variety of sizes.  There are starter cubes that are used to germinate seeds, and can be used for cloning.  Additionally, larger cubes are available that are used throughout every stage of plant growth.  Rockwool absorbs up to forty times its weight of water, which keeps the roots very moist long after saturation.  The only downside of using Rockwool is that it has a tendency to collect toxic mineral deposits, from the solution. So it becomes mandatory to flush out the cubes every few days with fresh water.  The advantage to using Rockwool is that it is inexpensive and readily attainable.

Perlite

Perlite is not a brand name but a generic term for naturally occurring siliceous rock. The distinguishing feature, which sets Perlite apart from other volcanic glasses, is that when heated to a point it expands from four to twenty times its original volume. This expansion is due to the presence of water, in the rock. When briskly heated to above 1600 degrees F (871 degrees C), the crude rock pops in a manner similar to popcorn.  As the water vaporizes it creates tiny pores.  These pores give the rock its amazing lightweight, and its ability to absorb water.  This expansion process also creates one of Perlites’ most distinguishing characteristics, its white color. While the crude rock may range from transparent to light gray, to a glossy black-the color of expanded Perlite looks snowy white, or grayish-white.  Expanded Perlite can be manufactured to weigh as little as 2 pounds per cubic foot, which allows it to take up a great deal of space but at the same time weigh very little. Since Perlite is a form of natural glass and has a pH of approximately 7, it is classified as chemically inert.  This medium is used in just about every system available on the market.

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a natural rock, like Perlite, so it will not deteriorate, but it differs in composition.  It is composed of silicates, and looks like crushed mica.  It has fine aeration properties, but is not always neutral in pH. It tends to be alkaline (basic), and can be as high as 9.5 depending on where it was mined, so be sure to test it and adjust your nutrients accordingly.  Vermiculite is very absorbent and can hold many times its weight in water.  It must be used in containers because of its size. It is usually used in wick systems to help draw the solution upward.

Coconut Fiber

Coconut Fiber is an entirely natural medium that can be used in hydroponic systems.  It is composed of organic compounds, which make it biodegradable- this can be messy.  This medium holds water very well and can retain small amounts of nutrients.  It is possible to reuse coconut fiber for two or three cycles, but we strongly recommend using a fresh batch each time you grow to prevent algae and diseases.  A disadvantage to using the fiber is that particles from the fiber fall and saturate the solution, which in turn can clog pumps or tubes.

Fired Clay Pebbles

This is one of the more popular mediums for hydroponic cultivation.  These clay pebbles are inexpensive; they are pH balanced, and can be reused numerous times.  They are made by heating treated clay pebbles rapidly, which causes them to expand.  They are porous and hold water.  However, the clay pebbles do not retain the water well, so it would be best to use them in conjunction with coconut fiber, Rockwool, or Vermiculite. Begin your seeds or clones in another medium and then place them in the clay pebbles.  The best clay pebbles are the ones that are irregular in shape, with many pores.  Avoid the perfectly smooth ones because they will not hold the roots, or water, well.

Diahydro

Diahydro is a natural sedimentary rock medium that consists of the fossilized remains of diatoms. Diahydro is extremely high in Silica (87-94%), an essential component for the growth of plants and strengthening of cell walls.

Expanded clay

Hydroton brand expanded clay pebbles.

Also known under the trademarks ‘Hydroton’ or LECA (light expanded clay aggregate), these small, round baked spheres of clay are inert and are suitable for hydroponic systems in which all nutrients are carefully controlled in water solution. The clay pellet is also inert, pH neutral and do not contain any nutrient value.

The clay is formed into round pellets and fired in rotary kilns at 1200°C. This causes the clay to expand, like popcorn, and become porous. It is light in weight, and does not compact over time. Shape of individual pellet can be irregular or uniform depending on brand and manufacturing process. The manufacturers consider expanded clay to be an ecologically sustainable and re-usable growing medium because of its ability to be cleaned and sterilized, typically by washing in solutions of white vinegar, chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), and rinsing completely.

Another viewpoint is clay pebbles are best not re-used even when they are cleaned due to root growth which may enter the medium. Breaking open a clay pebble after a crop has been grown will reveal this. However, this view is generally not widely shared.

Rockwool

Rockwool is probably the most widely used medium in hydroponics. Made from basalt rock it is heat-treated at high temperatures then spun back together like candy floss. It comes in lots of different forms including cubes, blocks, slabs and granulated or flock.

Rockwool is an excellent inert substrate for both ‘free drainage’ and recirculating systems. In free drainage or run-to-waste systems, the chance of disease spread is greatly lessened. Rockwool is also lightweight and self-contained, which allows plants to be grown at different densities in different stages - young plants can be grown to an advanced stage in a small area before being planted out into the main growing area, thus improving crop turnaround. Its light weight also permits setting up to be quick and inexpensive. Because it is light and rigid it eliminates back-breaking work in preparation and planting and gives substantial labor-saving costs. Rockwool is noted for providing a favourable root environment, thus minimizing plant stress. Root temperature can also be controlled, thus giving substantial energy savings. Rockwool initially causes an increase in pH level. You must adjust the pH level of the nutrient solution to counteract this. A pH level of 5.5-6.5 should suffice to create a suitable pH.

The disadvantages of rockwool are few. Although relatively inexpensive, because of its bulk, transport costs to remote regions can be prohibitive. However, the fact that it can be used several times over will reduce the growers overall costs. Before handling, gloves and long shirt sleeves should be worn to prevent minor skin irritation. This can also be lessened by wetting the rockwool before handling. When this medium is dry, care needs to be taken so as not to inhale any particles; inhaling such particles may carry a health risk.

Coir

Coco peat, also known as coir or coco, is the leftover material after the fibres have been removed from the outermost shell (bolster) of the coconut. It took 10 centuries to make this waste a viable plant substrate. The first description of the coco process dates from the 11th century and was recorded by Arabian traders. In 1290, Marco Polo described the process of extracting fibres from coconuts. For centuries, this process remained unchanged. Coco peat was a waste product from factories that used coco fibre as a raw material for making sailing ropes, chair seats and mattress fillings.

Coco is a 100% natural grow and flowering medium, which has proven its value across years and years. Coco is not only a high quality product, but also an environmentally friendly product^{[The Hydroponic Bible]}. For many years the raw material was considered waste material, and enormous useless “Coco Mountains” appeared in the landscapes of countries like Sri Lanka and India. By developing a special biological composting process this “waste” transformed into a high quality product. This innovation was, and still is, an important contributor to the local economy of India and Sri Lanka. This and the unique growth characteristics ensure coco is the medium of the moment and the future.

The coco substrate is an environmentally friendly product. No energy wasteful production methods are used during the production of this long-lasting cultivation medium. Coconut fibres are obtained from the coconuts’ husks which are a natural product that can be harvested throughout the year. Coir comes in bags and in slabs.

Some types of coir are very high in sodium (salt) due to the nature of coconut palms growing on island environments and being processed in the salt air. Quality coir has not been sterilized or heat treated and so retains its natural sponge-like qualities as well as the natural, beneficial trichoderma fungi which has been scientifically shown to combat root rot and other diseases.^{[The Hydroponic Bible]}   Trichoderma is also well-known for promoting root growth.^{[citation needed]}

This substrate combines the tolerant, organic nature of soil with the precision of rockwool. Due to the special characteristics of the substrate the nutrient doesn’t have a grow and flower variant, there is just one unique formulation for both growth and blooming phase. Due to the unique buffering capability of the coir substrate, and its sponge-like structure, the nutrients needed to ensure high yields are stored in the coco. This means that the plant itself can regulate the amount and timing of its nutrient intake.

Coconut fibres have sufficient capillary action to retain enough water and nutrients. This means that the plant can go for longer periods with-out water, which could happen if a feeding pump was to break down for example.

Quality coir can be used a number of times and makes an excellent soil improver after use.

Perlite

Perlite is a volcanic rock that has been superheated into very lightweight expanded glass pebbles. It is used loose or in plastic sleeves immersed in the water. It is also used in potting soil mixes to decrease soil density. Perlite has similar properties and uses to vermiculite but generally holds more air and less water. If not contained, it can float if flood and drain feeding is used.

Vermiculite

Like perlite, vermiculite is another mineral that has been superheated until it has expanded into light pebbles. Vermiculite holds more water than perlite and has a natural “wicking” property that can draw water and nutrients in a passive hydroponic system. If too much water and not enough air surrounds the plants roots, it’s possible to gradually lower the medium’s water-retention capability by mixing in increasing quantities of perlite.

Sand

Sand is cheap and easily available. However, it is heavy, it does not always drain well, and it must be sterilized between use.

Gravel

The same type that is used in aquariums, though any small gravel can be used, provided it is washed first. Indeed, plants growing in a typical traditional gravel filter bed, with water circulated using electric powerhead pumps, are in effect being grown using gravel hydroponics. Gravel is inexpensive, easy to keep clean, drains well and won’t become waterlogged. However, it is also heavy, and if the system doesn’t provide continuous water, the plant roots may dry out.

Brick Shards

Brick shards have similar properties to gravel. They have the added disadvantages of possibly altering the pH and requiring extra cleaning before reuse.

Polystyrene packing peanuts

Polystyrene packing peanuts are inexpensive, readily available, and have excellent drainage. However, they can be too lightweight for some uses. They are mainly used in closed tube systems. Note that polystyrene peanuts must be used; biodegradable packing peanuts will decompose into a sludge. Plants may absorb styrene and pass it to their consumers; this is a possible health risk

Artificial Lighting

Lighting is the catalyst for photosynthesis, without it photosynthesis ceases to occur. Artificial lighting is a fantastic way to supply energy needed for plant growth, without depending on the sun for energy.

Photosynthesis

Plants require a constant supply of energy to grow, and this energy comes from light. In nature, plants receive light from the sun. There are various types of artificial lights that provide differing light spectrums. Every source of light has light spectrums.   Before learning about these artificial lights, it is important to understand how plants use light in the growth process (discussed in the CO₂ Chapter). Fundamentally, photosynthesis provides energy to the plant.

Light Spectrums

Cannabis needs specific spectrums mainly red and blue, to produce sugars. White light, as it comes from the sun, is composed of waves of every spectrum. The band of colors that compose the visible spectrum of light (that which we can see) include, starting with the longest rays: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. Much of the red, blue, indigo and violet wavelengths are absorbed and used in photosynthesis while the green and most of the yellow/orange are barely used in photosynthesis.

Lamp Types and Description:

Ø  H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) Lights: Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps belong to the HID family of lights. They are used for garden lighting because of their high light output per watt, and the favorable spectral distribution of their light.

Ø  Metal Halide - This type of light provides the consumer with a favorable blue light spectrum distribution. One of their strongest characteristics, is they are low on the light spectrum range (around the 400 to 500 nanometers range). This is called the blue side of the light spectrum.  The blue spectrum promotes vegetative plant growth.  It helps stimulate strong stems, and picture perfect leaves, which are all needed for flowering.  Another positive aspect of Metal Halide lamps is the relatively low heat out puts.  They are found in many different styles; such, as clear (which puts out more light energy for growth), or frosted (which puts out less light energy, but are easier to work under because there is less of a glare).  They range in wattage outputs, starting at 75 watts all the way to 1000 watts.  The most popular of these bulbs is the 400 and 1000-watt models.  

Ø  Sodium Lamps - HPS- This type of light source provides the consumer with a favorable light spectrum distribution.  Its light spectrum range is around 600 to 700 nanometers, which is known as the red-orange spectrum range.  They are predominately used during the flowering stage.  In order for a plant to flower properly it must be exposed to the red side of the light spectrum, as well as the blue side.  They are commonly known for there ability to stimulate bud growth. This type of lamp is also found in clear and frosted models, with a range from 75 to 1000 watts.  The most commonly used are the 400 and 1000-watt size.

Ø  Son-T AGRO Lamps - is some of the most widely used and commonly found in indoor gardens.  They are favored because of their high versatility, represent, both the blue and red light spectrum, just like the sun.  Red is the dominating spectrum making up 70 % of the light production and the blue the other 30 %.  This makes this type of light very easy to work with. It is useful if you have only one grow room, or you just want to save the trouble of switching out lights. It stimulates both vegetative growth and flowering.  They do not consume a lot of energy, which makes these lamps moderately cost effective.  You can find this type of lamp from the 75 to 1000 watt ranges, with 400 and 1000 watts being the most commonly used.  A great feature of this type of lamp is that it has two inner arch tubes.  If one arch goes out, the other will ignite so that there is no disruption in light supply.

Ø  Retort Fit Bulbs - These are specialty bulbs you can purchase to easily convert your Metal Halide lamp into an HPS, and vice-verse.  The major difference between these bulbs, and other bulbs, is that they have an igniter inside the lamp.  You can find them in sizes from 75 to 1000 watts. They are used for both flowering and vegetative growth.

Ø  Florescent Tubes - These bulbs have long been used for indoor gardening.  Although this type of lighting is not the best for growing or flowering, it is a great source of light for seedlings, sprouts and clones.  The rationale for this is that florescent light stimulates root growth.  This type of light produces very little heat, so you can keep the light source very close to the young plants, and in tern they can absorb more energy.

Ø  Ultra Violet Light- These lights actually cause the cannabis to produce more THC during flowering.  This light source should be used in conjunction with other light and should only be used during flowering for thirty minutes a day.  The plants should only be exposed to this light in three intervals of ten minutes, with a thirty-minute rest in between each interval.  If it is used any more than thirty minutes a day it could damage the plants.

Ø  Ballast or Control Box- Most HID lamps must be used in conjunction with a “control box”.  The reason for this box is the lamps require a regulated flow of energy.  The control boxes are separated into two different categories.  The first one is the constant flow type. All it does is insure there is a continual flow of energy to the lamp.  It means just what the name implies.  This type of control box is more expensive in terms of its energy intake, because of the higher use of electricity.  The second type is the controlled flow.  It less expensive, than the other types of control boxes, because it uses less electricity.  This is also referred to as ballast.  No need for this if you are using florescent tubes. However remember to purchase the right kind of ballast that corresponds to your light type.   Otherwise you are wasting your time and your money.  You can easily blow out bulbs, if you do not use the right type of ballast or control box.

When shopping for a lamp, there are some questions you should ask yourself.  The seven most important are:

1. Lamp effectiveness. Will it/they provide enough light? 

2. Total light and heat output.  How hot dose it/they get?

3. Grow room dimensions.  How many will I need?

4. Special plant requirements.  Do I need to focus on a particular spectrum?

5. Spectral distribution.  Do they provide the correct spectrums?

6. What will work for me? 

7. What can the company afford?

Electric Bill

It is very imperative you calculate how much your electric bill will increase, before you start to grow to project overhead.

If you are trying to do this illegally against our recommendations, note the electric companies watch your wattage consumption. If they suspect you of growing, or just want to know why such a little place is using so much energy, they will investigate.  This may lead to the discovery of your grow room, and place you smack dab in the middle of a trial.  If you think this is doesn’t apply to you should consider the fact that employees, who catch you, receive money form the authorities, in the amount of two thousand dollars

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Light Chart

The Wick System

A user friendly system is the Wick system, also known as the passive system.  It is referred to as the Wick system because many of these systems actually use a wick to draw the nutrient-solution upward, towards the root system. It is also called passive because it does not use any electronic device to move the nutrients from the reservoir to the roots. When you purchase this system a pump is included in it. The pump (more a bubbler) is simply used to aerate the water, and is not for any other use.

 The wick system works by suspending the roots or a wick in a small reservoir of solution water.  The wick soaks the nutrients up and allows the nutrients to reach the root system, which grows around the wick towards the reservoir-eventually reaching the solution. The solution is circulated within the reservoir, to aerate it, and to provide an even distribution of nutrients throughout the entire solution. In this system, as with all other systems, the root structure is supported by an inert growing medium that is placed above the reservoir.

The ultimate advantage of this system is that it is virtually self-regulating, with regard to nutrient supply.  There are very few parts to break, and even fewer logistics to master. The foremost impressive aspect of this system is it reliability.  This is a result of the natural way in which water is supplied to the roots, via the wick.

Light Spectrums

Cannabis needs specific spectrums mainly red and blue, to produce sugars. White light, as it comes from the sun, is composed of waves of every spectrum. The band of colors that compose the visible spectrum of light (that which we can see) include, starting with the longest rays: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. Much of the red, blue, indigo and violet wavelengths are absorbed and used in photosynthesis while the green and most of the yellow/orange are barely used in photosynthesis. (www.hydroponicsonline.com)

If you use the correct spectrums, you can increase the productivity of the plant. Using HID lights have the utmost results of all the lights sources available on the market.  They focus the proper spectrums of light needed during the different stages of growth.

During the vegetative phase the plants respond pleasantly to the blue light-a spectrum the plants favor during this phase of growth.  The blue light promotes vegetative growth including the development of roots, stocks, and leaves.  The light helps build a strong foundation that helps the plant support buds.   During flowering plants demand a higher concentration of red-orange light that, in fact, encourages budding.   Some people try to use just one source through out all the stages of growth, and they find that the stems become elongated, or their plants fall over and die, or they develop weird deficiencies. 

Signs of Light Deficiencies:

Ÿ       Stretching toward the light source

Ÿ       Elongation of stems

Ÿ       Deformities

Ÿ       Dose not bud

Light Spectrums and Phases

Using CO₂

          Carbon is the basis for all life on earth due to its versatile bonding configurations. Carbon can bond to itself; can form single bonds (alkanes), double bonds (alkenes), triple bonds (alkynes), rings, and chains. Carbon is the first element in group IV. It is a nonmetal with an atomic number of six and an atomic mass of approximately 12. Carbon has four electrons in its outer shell and forms covalent bonds. Carbon is quite inert at ordinary temperatures, but it combines with oxygen at moderate temperatures making it an important reducing agent for metallic oxides.

What does this mean?

Increasing the basis for all life will increase yield!

An example, Grower X sits erect, right hand holding onto an extremely large bud-left hand holding on a descent size bud.  They are exactly the same strain, started at the same time, grown using the exact same solution poured from the same 5-gallon bucket, and grown for exactly the same length of time.  Why then, dose the bud in his right hand weigh 4 grams more than the one in his left? The two buds were grown in two separate rooms, but all the growing conditions were kept the same except for one variation.  The bud in his right hand was grown in a carbon-rich environment.

Photosynthesis

Photosynthesis is the process by which plants use the sun’s energy, carbon dioxide and water to produce glucose. The glucose is produced to be used as energy when there is no light available, and is needed for cellular respiration. Photosynthesis begins when a photon from the sun strikes a chloroplast (located on a plant leaf), and bounces an electron on the chlorophyll.  The electron can either return back to where it came from, Cyclic Cycle, or the electron can be replaced by a H+ molecule from water (non-cyclic cycle).  When the non-cyclic begins the original electron is transferred to a NAD+ to form NADH.  The NADH and some Andronstein Triphosphate (ATP) then go to the Calvin cycle.  This is where the carbon dioxide is used to make glucose C6H12O6.  The plant then combines these starches and nitrogen to create tissue growth.  This new tissue is sixty- percent carbon.  Therefore, if you have saturated carbon levels in your grow room it will enable the plants to produce more tissue and your plants will weigh more, as a result. 

How it is measured.

Carbon dioxide is measured in ppm (parts per million) and in the earth’s atmosphere the normal level is about 400 ppm.  Raising the ppm in your controlled environment to 1600-1900 ppm, will allow your plants to double, or even triple their production. 

It is not necessary to add carbon dioxide to a grow room, but remember it can increase your crop and make the pot much more potent.  The patients will appreciate it!  If you choose not to included this feature in your grow room it is still possible to produce a beautiful crop- it‘s just not as marketable.

Carbon Dioxide Systems

There are many different ways to make and obtain CO₂.  The best method is to lease the cylinders of carbon dioxide from a local welding supply house, or buy them.  The prices for renting vary, but in general, a carbon dioxide canister can rented for a hundred-dollar deposit and twenty dollars to fill the tank.  A twenty-pound tank will last you about two month’s, maybe a little more, depending on your dispersion methods- more importantly depending on the number of plants. There are many different size tanks, the bigger the tank the longer it will last of course.

We favor an emitter system even though one pound of carbon dioxide only displaces about eight cubic feet of air.  This system is easier to set up than any other automated system we have encountered.  This system is also environmentally friendly compared to other systems that release gases, which add to the greenhouse effect and deplete the ozone layer.  This system is virtually self- regulating and is very clean, in terms of exhaust.  It is also is capable of dispersing carbon dioxide evenly though out the garden because of the tubing kits included that disperses CO₂ above the plants.  A complete system including; a solenoid valve, a regulator, a flow meter and a timer, usually will run you 300 dollars.  Just a little advice, it is best to purchase your emitter as a complete kit to avoid miss-matching the parts.  However, if you do not buy a full kit then it is important that you at least buy a regulator and a timer.  Remember that it is important, not necessary, to have a full working system.  A regulator will usually run you about 200 dollars and a timer can vary between ten and one hundred dollars.  If your company can afford it- then dismiss the cheap suggestion.

The basic CO2 tank system has:

·   20 lb tank $100

·   Regulator $159

·   Timer or controller $10-125

The Ebb & Flow System 

Another very popular type of hydro-system is the ebb & flow, also known as flood and drain.  This system setup resembles a dam. The root structure is placed in pots filled with the growing medium. The pots contain holes in the bottom and the sides that serve a dual purpose. The holes allow the roots to soak up nutrients and drain the nutrients.  These pots are kept in an open topped base, which is periodically immersed in five inches of nutrient solution from the reservoir via a pump, which is typically located below the flood base. Then the nutrients drain back into the reservoir to await future use. 

This system usually comes in very small versions and is ideal for a small scale study.  This system also allows the cultivator to maximize his growing space.  It is also very easy to transport.

First, you must understand how to figure out how much carbon dioxide is needed to produce optimal CO₂levels for plant growth, and how it should be emitted.   

So first some basic math Volume=L x W x H

L=length of room

W=width of room

H=height of room

We will express this as V = L x W x H.  To start with measure the length, width, and height of the room- then multiply them all together. Say the length of the room was 2, the width was 2, and the height was 2.  This would give us the equation V = 2 x 2 x 2 which equals eight (V = 8 cubic feet).

The next step is to multiply V times .00132 to give you how much carbon dioxide you should add, to bring the room to three times the normal carbon dioxide level-also known as optimal level.

Example:

W = 12 ft.

H = 10 ft.

L = 8 ft.

V = (12 x 10 x = 960 ft.

960 x (.00132) = 1.2672 cubic feet

This means that you will need to add 1.3 cubic feet of carbon dioxide to the room at initially.  Succeeding the initial dispersing you will have to set a timer 1/2 the original amount (1.3/2), every hour and a half (90 minutes), or do it manually.

Hydroponic Systems

With every system discussed here you must understand that all the previous rules are applicable with respect to pH, nutrients, temperature, lights, CO₂ and ventilation.  The only thing that truly differs between each type of system is the method in which each system delivers the nutrients to the root system.

Simple Set Ups

The simplest hydroponic system for low, low, budget companies is a non-recycling system consisting of well-drained containers filled with an acceptable substrate (see the section on mediums). The nutrient solution is mixed, and then it is applied, one to three times daily, using a simple watering can.

The most economical system utilizes a recycling system, which involves collecting and reusing excess solution. The simplest version of this technique involves placing a large dish under the plant container to catch the solution and then pouring the solution back over the plant at regular intervals.

A larger-scale version of the recycling method involves using a container that has a hose and an outlet an inch or two from its base. The container must be raised off the floor and tilted so that the nutrient solution drains through the outlet into a receptacle. These simple hand-fed methods work best with small-scale systems. For larger systems, a submersible pump can be used to pump the solution back into the container from the receptacle.

Using Recycled Material to Make a System

Use containers such as plastic water jugs, etc. 2-liter soda bottles work great. This saves you tons of money, but is labor intensive.  Simply fill the containers with a rocky growing medium, something that can create space for the roots.  Then you add a bubbler to supply air to the roots.  You now have a basic hydro system. Be sure to sterilize all containers before each planting, with a chlorine bleach solution.

A simple ebb-n-flow

While conducting research for this book I stumbled across a simple ebb and flow Hydroponic system, online, from hydroponicsonline.com.  It can be built with some basic components: a bucket, a tub, tubing, and a growing medium. In my opinion the system they suggest to make is simple:

Ÿ       1 bucket for your nutrient reservoir (2- 5 gallons)

Ÿ       1 tub for your plant bed (approximately l’ x 2′ x 6″)

Ÿ       3 ft. plastic tubing, 1/2″ diameter

Ÿ       enough Growing Medium to fill the base

Ÿ       silicone or epoxy glue

Ÿ       drill with 1/2″ bit

Ÿ       2″ x 2″ piece of plastic screen or mesh

Ÿ       1 rubber band

Ÿ nutrient solution                                                                                                                                                                                    

1.       Drill a 1/2″ hole on the side of the bucket, about 1″
from the bottom

2.       Insert the hose into the hole in the bucket and seal
the edges of the hole with the glue.

3.       Drill a 1/2″ hole in the side of the tub (plant bed)
about 1″ from the bottom.

4.       Insert the other end of the tubing into the hole in the plant bed, allowing the end of the tubing to protrude 2″ through the bucket. Seal the edges of the hole with the glue. Allow time for the glue to dry.                 

5.       Wrap the piece of screen around the end of the tubing that comes through the side of the plant bed and secure with the rubber band. This prevents the growing medium from clogging the tube.                            

6.       Pour the growing medium into the tub, filling it to I” below the rim. The Ebb and Flow hydroponic garden is now ready for nutrient solution and planting.

7.       Fill your bucket with the mixed nutrient solution. Lift the bucket (higher than the grow bed) and allow the solution to run from the bucket into the grow bed. You can place the bucket on something higher than the grow bed while waiting for the nutrient solution to drain into the grow bed. When the growing medium is saturated, lower the bucket so the solution can drain back into the bucket.

8.  Once your growing medium is saturated, you can plant your seeds. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting depth. Or use starter plants from your local nursery. Carefully wash the lose medium from the bedding plant roots before putting the plants in the plant bed.         

9.       Once you have planted the seeds, the growing medium will need to be kept moist with nutrient solution. This is done by raising the bucket (flooding the grow bed) and lowering the bucket (draining the grow bed). This should be done several times a day to maintain a proper moisture level in the growing medium surrounding the plant roots.

You can automate this hydroponic garden by adding a small pump in your nutrient reservoir to flood the grow bed and a timer to start and stop the pump. Hydroponicsonline.com has a perfect example of a cheap alternative to mainstream systems.

Nutrient Flow

This type of system is typically used in commercial farming that involves a large number of plants. This system supplies nutrients by utilizing half tubes or pipes.  These tubes, which are slightly angled, allow nutrients to flow over the roots.  The nutrient solution flows over, and through, the growing medium/ root structure, until it collects at the reservoir that is located at the lowest point of the system.  The nutrient solution is then recycled, and the whole process begins again. If you plan on growing a large number of plants look into one of these systems.

Aeroponics

In addition to the systems that require a substrate, there are non-aggregate methods such as water culture and Aeroponics. In water culture, the plant’s roots are kept submerged in the nutrient solution. The plants are supported by a grid of wire, rope, or string or by coarse screening. This method, however, introduces aeration problems and requires an aquarium pump to bubble oxygen into the nutrient solution.

Aeroponics works under the same principals as hydroponics, but instead of submerging the roots in the nutrient solution it uses a vaporizer to constantly mist the roots with the solution-think rainforest. The plants are kept in small net pots filled with a growing medium, and are located above a bucket. The bucket is sealed so that no light reaches the solution inside.  Located inside the bucket is a vaporizer. Its purpose is to distribute in the form of an extremely fine mist, which the roots absorb.   The nutrients drip back down the roots and sides of the bucket until it falls back down to the bottom of the bucket where it collects and is re-vaporized. 

The greatest advantage of using this method/system is that the roots are constantly exposed to the atmosphere, which increases the amount of oxygen supplied to the roots.  The more oxygen the roots are exposed to, the faster they can absorb nutrients, resulting in faster plant growth. 

This system is primarily used for cloning plants.  Its process of nutrient delivery encourages the cuttings to produce roots very fast. This system is commonly used to bring the cuttings to a full vegetative stage then it is removed, and the plants are relocated to another growing system.

How many gallons will your system hold?

To calculate how many gallons your containers will hold; first calculate the Cubic inches of the container, then multiply the number by 0.0043 to covert cubic inches to gallons.

Step 1, Calculate the cubic inches of the container:

 
For round containers, use the following formula: (radius in inches, squared) x (Height in inches) x 3.14.

For square or rectangular containers use (Height in inches) x (Width in inches) x (Depth in inches).

 
Step 2, Take the number of Cubic inches and multiply by: 0.0043

For example, a cylindrical container that is 10″ x 5″ X 10″ tall:
average radius squared= 14.06 inches (the average diameter is 7.5, half of that is 3.75, (3.75X3.75=14.06)

X height in inches=10 X 14.06= 140.6
X 3.14= 441.484 Cubic inches
X 0.004329= 1.9 gallons.

Another, less mathematical approach, would be to fill one gallon jugs with water and pour them into your container until it is full. Count the number of jugs added, and that will be how many gallons of nutrient your container holds

 I knew Chris’s medical marijuana work long before I knew the man.  Many years before our first meeting I read a string of his underground pamphlets. How he got my address I will never know, nor will he tell me. Although they were helpful they seemed to be lacking, so I was not surprised when he sent me a copy of this manuscript, asking if I could contribute to the book.  Now, after I read the manuscript, every time I need any advice about cultivating, I open my copy of The Hydroponic Bible.  It has been a godsend to me and my crops.  This book, to the cultivator, is the equivalent of the periodic table to the chemist.  The fist time I read his book I remember thinking, how could he give away so many trade secrets?  Every trick he has discovered he has documented and shared in this book. Why is he helping researchers produce better marijuana?  And, why is he giving away the best trade secrets?  Then it occurred to me; he just wants to help.  The most valuable aspect of this book, to me, is how he accounts for every aspect of Indoor-Hydroponic gardening.  Showing you the struggles many researchers before you have endured. It is a compendium of information that rivals any cultivation book on the market.  I urge all legitimate growers, no matter how much experience they may have in the cultivation field, to take some time to read this book.  It has become a permanent part of my gardening library.