Learn about Lighting
Learn about harvesting marijuana.
Learn about large scale operation.
Part 1: http://youtube.com/watch?v=6iQDWV5VdY0Part
2: http://youtube.com/watch?v=_cOaeXXYvUs
Part 3: http://youtube.com/watch?v=3S-HC2WC3MU
Part 4: http://youtube.com/watch?v=zOYlJWaSHe4
This book will focus on improving marijuana through the use of Indoor hydroponics. The techniques mentioned in this book are for the medicinal uses of cannabis and for those legally able to grow it.
Indoor-Hydroponic gardening is a lot like building a house, you have all the necessary supplies to build the house: wood, nails, brick mortar and equipment. You have your blue prints, but this does not make a house. It makes a pile of rubbish. You have to put the supplies together in the correct order with skilled labor in order to end up with a house. In a sense, this is what Indoor-Hydroponic gardening is like. You must know how to properly utilize your supplies and equipment-this is what a guide like this is for! It enables you to finish with a house instead of a pile of rubbish.
If you are new to Hydroponics here is what wiki-pedia has to say-
“Hydroponics (from the Greek words hydro (water) and ponos (labour)) is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions instead of soil. Terrestrial plants may be grown with their roots in the mineral nutrient solution only or in an inert medium, such as perlite, gravel or mineral wool. A variety of techniques exist.
Plant physiology researchers discovered in the 19th century that plants absorb essential mineral nutrients as inorganic ions in water. In natural conditions, soil acts as a mineral nutrient reservoir but the soil itself is not essential to plant growth. When the mineral nutrients in the soil dissolve in water, plant roots are able to absorb them. When the required mineral nutrients are introduced into a plant’s water supply artificially, soil is no longer required for the plant to thrive. Almost any terrestrial plant will grow with hydroponics, but some will do better than others. It is also very easy to do; the activity is often undertaken by very young children with such plants as watercress. Hydroponics is also a standard technique in biology research and teaching and a popular hobby.
chris Kovach
chrisKovach@hydroponicbible.com
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Normally referred to as the manufacturing of a controlled substance, it is defined as the growing, planting, or harvesting of cannabis anywhere. The government defines a single plant as a system having functional leaves and roots. If the plant, however, has multiple stems protruding from a single root system, it is considered as a single plant. In contrast, each stalk supported by its own root system is considered to be a single plant. Therefore, if you have multiple plants intertwined, they will be counted as multiple plants. The government also considers both male and female plants as equals. This means that you can get in just as much trouble for a male plant as you would a female plant.
All a state needs to get a cultivation conviction is to prove you had prior knowledge of the existing plant(s) and that you were intending to use the plant(s) in some way. They can do this relatively easily if you are found having anything that is used to grow marijuana, for example; seeds, chemicals, shears, part of the plant, bags. e.c.t…
The federal courts supersede the state court, which basically means that the federal courts set the limits or boundaries in relation to the sentencing phase of a conviction. This is a nationalized attempt to level local power in order to help avoid individual discrimination and insure fair, and just sentencing. It sets a minimum and a maximum sentence-usually combined with some sort of fine. These boundaries must be adhered to by all states; and every sentence must fall in between the minimum and the maximum sentence, unless special circumstances are presented. It is important to realize that it is possible to be prosecuted twice for the same crime, both under federal law and then the state law. These two bodies of law enforcement are considered separate which means that you could have two different trials, in two different courts; hence you can receive two sentences, but that rarely happens.
Receiving the Minimum Sentence
While abstinence is the best way to insure a sentence of zero, this just isn’t possible for a zealous grower. It is possible to avoid receiving the maximum sentence if you meet any two of the following three requirements; One, you did not use violence; two, you were not the leader of the operation, or three, you tell on someone else about any crime-it does not have to necessarily be the crime you were involved in. However, saving your own ass usually looks good from behind the bars, but telling on someone else could potentially be very detrimental to your health. So you might want to thoroughly think about it before you sacrifice someone else to save yourself. In the end you might actually cause yourself more grief. Hopefully you have not attempted to grow illegally.
Possession
Nine times out of ten possession is what a cropper is charged with simply because most do not get caught growing it. Usually they get busted moving or storing it (base on conviction rates). This crime is not as serious a manufacturing, but it’s still severe.
The federal penalty for POSSESSION based on a first offense and a personally useable amount only- is usually a cakewalk compared to a repeat offender’s punishment. For the first offense, the federal laws state: you shall receive a sentence that is no more than one year in jail; and a fine that does not exceed 1000 dollars. More than likely you will receive probation. It is possible to get probation only if you have never been convicted of a drug offense before.
For a second or third offender, your punishments will drastically increase. If you are a second time offender the sentence will be between 10 days and two years and a fine not to exceed 2500 dollars. They say the third time is the charm and you should have learn your lesson by now because you will definitely be in jail between 90 days and three years, combined with a fine of 5000 dollars.
At the heart of cannabis cultivation is the cutting-edge growth technique Hydroponics. Hydroponics is, simply put, growing plants without soil. The discovery was made years ago that it was not the actual soil that marijuana plants needed in order to grow, but instead they needed the mineral nutrients contained in the soil. Basically hydroponics is just another way of providing all the nutrients needed by a plant. These nutrients are supplied to the plant in a liquid solution that is absorbed by the roots. Thus now it is well known to most gardeners that all plants have the same basic nutritional needs and as long as these nutritional needs are met, soil is no longer necessary. In fact, normal soil may harbor pathogens and other harmful organisms that can damage marijuana plants.
An additional benefit of hydroponics is that the plants often grow faster and healthier because nutrients are immediately available, and therefore can be assimilated quicker.
This method of cultivation can be very rewarding, in many ways, but can be most demanding. If you have a legitimate reason to grow, you should try to do it Hydroponically and Indoors, but remember it can be very demanding and is not for the genitally lazy.
As most of you know the penalties for marijuana related crimes varies from state to state. And while this chapter is more specific, with regard to the distinctiveness of state laws, it is still presented in a generalized manner. We stress the words GENERAL because, ultimately, every case is different. And ultimately, it is impossible to configure ones exact sentence with a chart. It is possible to present you with the possibilities, though. Now, remember that the punishments can vary depending on a variety of factors and circumstances. Things such as previous convictions, previous drug related charges, and the degree of any other previous or current charges can impact your punishment
Not shockingly, marijuana has been considered a cure-all for centuries by many. As you may well know, when smoked, the chemicals in the plant give the user a feeling of well-being. This is due to the large amounts of alkaloids present in the plant, which affect the nervous system, in such away, as to alleviate symptoms of an illness temporarily. Marijuana only relieves the pains associated with disease. In no way has science proven that it out right cures any disease, at least up to this point. However, it is not fallacious to assume that it can help the body heal itself. There seems to be a correlation between the illusions of well-being that smoking pot produces, and real rapid healing. The medicinal properties seem to not be so much a direct cure, but rather an indirect one. It has the ability to alter the way one feels, tricking their body to feel euphoric and thus enables the human body to produce natural healing chemicals. These chemicals stimulate the human body to produce its own hormones that allow the user to heal naturally. While this explanation seems to be more along the lines of a “New-Age” medical cure, something akin to the theory that magnets cure everything. The facts do speak for themselves. It really works- for those who need it!
It is important to recognize that different strains of marijuana will affect the patient differently- some better and some worse. The only way to know which one is best for the patient is through lots of experimentation. The different concentration of THC, CBN and other chemicals is the main cause for the varying effects. No one has yet figured a dosage of THC for varying diseases. More medical research is needed!
Though the use of hydroponics you will be able to improve the strength of the perceived good chemicals, without any major increase in the harmful chemicals.
The scientific community does acknowledge that there is an increase in carcinogens when cannabis is grown hydroponicly. However, the results of the tests were so miniscule, scientist have determined the increase in chemicals to be negligible.
Marijuana addiction has clear signs and indicators and this page will discuss this in depth. Marijuana addiction is simply an uncontrollable urge to possess and use the drug. Those with marijuana addiction are not able to stop using the drug even if they wish. Often a person with marijuana addiction will make continuous excuses about why now is not a good time to stop using the drug. Such people are not alone. Marijuana addiction is a disease that affects millions of people every year.
There is a good reason why admission to rehabilitation facilities has doubled for marijuana addiction. The potency of the drug continues to get more powerful and studies show that teens can get a hold of marijuana often easier than alcohol. Even those who seek treatment for drugs that are perceived has “harder” like heroin or cocaine will often acknowledge that marijuana is their primary drug of choice.
Marijuana addiction has the same characteristics as any other addiction to other drugs including alcohol, tobacco or even caffeine. The frequent obsession with the drug, thinking about it all the time, where to get it, when to get it, is there enough, is it good enough, will I have the money for more are frequently asked questions. Another trait of marijuana addiction is the physical craving that comes when the body adapts to the drug and begins to develop a tolerance to it. Anyone who has been smoking marijuana for awhile can tell that they must smoke more now to feel the same effect that just a few hits used to produce. It’s not about the quality of the weed; it’s the bodies’ defense mechanism as it readjusts to keep balance with the frequent supply of new chemicals being delivered by the pot.
Consequences of marijuana addiction start to take toll when the user continues to use marijuana even in the event of health or social consequences. Memory and learning problems may be causing problems at work or even result in losing a job because of high absenteeism. Increasing isolation from friends and family often puts heavy strain on relationships with loved ones. There is a vicious cycle to marijuana addiction in which these problems are often used as a rational to smoke even more pot. A trap that many fall into is that the drug that is causing the problem becomes the solution to the problem it caused
Marijuana Detox
Marijuana detox is a medical description for the reason that marijuana detox is a medical process. Marijuana detox is the detoxification of the body of the effects of marijuana. Chronic users of the often-called pot, weed, hash, chronic, bud etc, often require marijuana detox before real recovery and abstinence can begin. Any chronic user of marijuana who has been unable to quit can appreciate the intentions of marijuana detox. Marijuana detox is often the first stage of a successful recovery plan because it helps clear the mind and focus on the action required of rehabilitation.
Chronic use of marijuana can lead to physical and emotional dependence on the drug. For those who are susceptible to marijuana addiction, dependence can develop very quickly. Indicators for marijuana addiction tendencies include having family members who are alcoholics or drug addicts. Many people who are addicted to marijuana report having an instant attraction to the drug from the first use.
Whether you need marijuana detox because of a lifetime of usage or marijuana detox for the last few months of heavy usage doesn’t matter. The important thing is that you recognize that you are no longer willing to go on as you have been-Isolating from friends and family, missing out on important occasions and events. Perhaps difficulties are becoming unbearable at work or you have lost a job due to marijuana dependency. An increase of learning difficulties and memory problems due to repeated marijuana use results in dropping out of school and abandoning goals.
Marijuana addiction is a very real disease that always gets worse for the addict. Continuous obsession about the drug consumes much of the day. Preparing it, seeking it out, making sure you have enough money to buy it even before the phone bill or gas bill. These are not easy habits to break.
Marijuana Side Effects
Marijuana side effects come from smoking or consuming the drug and marijuana side effects influence the mind and body of the user. Marijuana side effects can be as seemingly innocent as an increased appetite to as life threatening as lung cancer. Increased likelihood for accidents is also one of the marijuana side effects. Studies show that 6 to 11 percent of fatal accidents are contributed to by marijuana side effects. Other external marijuana side effects include legal problems, work and financial problems and troubles at home.
Marijuana is most often smoked but can be eaten or steeped in tea to drink. Most over-doses occur actually when the drug is eaten because it is easier to consume a large dose all at once. Marijuana side effects from an overdose include toxic psychosis including hallucinations, delusions and a loss of self-identification. When smoked, marijuana is rolled up into a cigarette called a joint or smoked in a pipe or water pipe called a bong. Marijuana has many street names like pot, hash, chronic and there are many paraphernalia available to smoke it.
Many may not have severe marijuana side effects from taking the drug but many people will. Marijuana side effects include physical problems like breathing difficulties and deteriorating physical abilities. Despite a popular belief, marijuana side effects speed up the heart, blood and breathing rate. The body is taxed more and this speeds up the aging process just like methamphetamines do. The marijuana side effects from this extra exertion on the body include a higher risk for lung cancer, heart attacks and strokes.
Marijuana side effects also wreak havoc on the brain when the drug is used habitually. The natural chemical balance of the brain is disrupted affecting the pleasure centers and regulatory systems. The ability to learn, remember and adapt quickly to changes is impaired by marijuana use. Depression often occurs with marijuana usage, which feeds into the cycle of more drug use to treat the pain created by drug use. This cycle of addiction is very powerful and users soon find that they cannot stop using the drug even if they want to.
Marijuana addiction is a progressive disease and marijuana side effects include withdrawal and obsessive thought with the drug when it is not made available. Addiction is identified as a compulsive, uncontrollable craving for the drug even with pending negative consequences. Often users will attempt to stop smoking marijuana for an important event such as a job interview or court hearing and find themselves using very close or just before the event. This act goes beyond a flexing of willpower. This describes being enveloped by a disease that has taken control and needs to be treated.
Marijuana Dangers
Marijuana dangers are usually listed as they affect the physical body and mind and marijuana dangers are often associated with emotional problems as well. Marijuana dangers are often reported in fluctuating waves. Some say there are more marijuana dangers than ever right now due to the increased potency of the drug. Others say marijuana dangers aren’t as bad and can even be used for medical purposes (see our medical marijuana page). This page isn’t going to convince anyone of the marijuana dangers. Our intention here is to help those who are already suffering the consequences of marijuana dangers and are wondering where they can find help.
Millions of people use marijuana habitually and many are quite addicted to the drug. Addiction is a disease and like any disease, tears away at the mind and body of the sufferer. Many pot smokers did not fully understand marijuana dangers as they began to smoke the drug early in life. Some pot smokers find themselves using the drug more than they would like and find it interfering with school, work and relationships with family and friends. This cycle can feed off of itself in a negative way causing more use of the drug and further consequences.
Many studies of marijuana dangers associate repeated use of the drug with lower test scores and academic abilities. On the job, workers who smoke pot often miss more work, have more accidents and are more likely to lose their job.
On emotional level marijuana dangers include isolation, depression and an increase in anxiety. Uncomfortable feelings and fear also lead to more use of the drug that can make for more problems. Studies show that over time, individuals who become physically and/or emotionally dependent on marijuana can find that they are falling behind on basic fundamental life skills that are being acquired by peers in the same age range. This can lead to self-esteem problems as self-reinforcement abilities deteriorate and confidence diminishes. So why doesn’t the pot smoker stop smoking pot?
Another one of the marijuana dangers is physical dependence on the drug. Many people try to stop over and over but are overwhelmed by anxiety, irritability and sleeping difficulties. Physical dependence is marked by withdrawal symptoms when the drug is removed. The marijuana dangers include the bodies’ adaptation to an almost continuous presence of the drug in its system. The brain adapts to the pain reducing reaction to the drug and its other analgesic effects like inducing sleep. Those who have only tried smoking pot once or twice might be amazed that anybody could function on the drug at all. But those who have been smoking the drug for months, and years, have become accustom to its effects and can often hide the fact that they are high at all.
This tolerance to the drug is yet another one of the marijuana dangers. Pot smokers who must smoke much more of the drug to feel the same affect that just a little used to provide. This leads to more intake of smoke which can cause more damage to the lungs and respiratory system.
One of the biggest marijuana dangers can just be the loss of hope from the frustration that you can’t seem to quit on your own. Fortunately there is help. Spencer Recovery Centers offers an effective answer to all of the marijuana dangers. Rehabilitation and recovery from marijuana dependency is possible with therapeutic and medical assistance. The doctors and counselors of Spencer Recovery Centers have helped many clients recover from their dependency on marijuana, alcohol, and other drugs. Spencer facilities are first rate, located along scenic beaches of California and Florida, they offer a safe haven to get through the tough times and explore what is really important.
Addiction to marijuana is a very real disease with symptoms and characterized by progression. If you or a loved one is unable to stop smoking marijuana even after swearing off the stuff forever, this is an indication of physical dependence. The negative effects may already be apparent. Loss of memory and ability to concentrate is one effect. A persistent or reoccurring cough is another. Continued use of marijuana can lead to cancer of the head, throat, lungs or mouth.
The social consequences can be just as damaging. Loss of friends, family, spouse, children can all come as a result of marijuana dependency and the isolation that comes from a fixation on the drug. The mental obsession and physical craving severely impedes one’s ability to perform at work and often results in job loss. Studies show that students who smoke marijuana do poorly at school compared to their classmates and workers who smoke pot have higher absences and accidents.
Marijuana Treatment
Marijuana treatment is in higher demand than ever because more people are seeking marijuana treatment for their dependency on the drug. Marijuana treatment is an effective answer to marijuana dependence. If you want to stop using pot, take action and seek marijuana treatment today.
Marijuana addiction spans all generational, economic and race lines. Men, women and teens alike can find themselves in the grips of addiction. Addiction is an ailment of the mind and body. The body develops a tolerance for marijuana and becomes dependent on it. This isn’t just a passing desire to get high, but rather a physical craving the body goes through like hunger or thirst. In addition to the physical dependence the brains chemicals are disrupted and new neurological pathways develop based on the continued use of marijuana. These new pathways affect the pleasure centers and can cause depression and anxiety when attempts are made to quit. Marijuana treatment must address the mind and body changes in order to be effective. Education focuses on behavior patterns such as triggers and situations that allow for marijuana use. Often recognizing these dangerous patterns is a solid beginning to changing them. (for more info visit)
(http://www.marijuana-addiction.net/)
It is vital that you start with a selection of cannabis that has good genetics. Genetics determine: the potency, growth rate, maturation time, and the resistance to fungus, and pests attacks. The traits of the strain you wish to grow should be researched and a determination made based on the desired characteristics. Moreover, it is extremely important to choose a type of cannabis that is suited for indoor growth- if you are growing indoors, of course?
Indica
We have found, throughout the years of watching many different croppers, grow many different strains, that the best variety of marijuana to cultivate indoors is the Indica strain. It’s short, broad, and bright colored leaves make it effortless to identify. This particular strain of marijuana originated in Central Asia, and is one of the most used and most sought after strains in the world. It is ideal for indoor gardening because they can handle sudden changes in the environment. These changes can range from equipment failures, to mistakes in the nutrient solution, and even short-term dramatic climate changes like freezing. This strain is known for its ability to endure! This type of cannabis remains relatively short, height wise, compared to the other kinds of marijuana. This makes it ideal for a person (such as you) who is trying to maximize all of their growing space. Not to mention, the Indica plant matures quickly and has a large harvesting capacity. The only draw back to these wide leaved plants is that they are difficult to clone.
How A Grow Room Should Be Set Up
Now this is where we divide the boys from the men. This is where the real work begins; the laying of the pipe, so to speak, the hard work. The base and foundation of any grow operation is setting up the grow area. One of the first aspects, pertaining to setting up a grow room; to consider, is the possibility of environmental instability. For example, you do not want to place a grow room in an environment that fluctuates from extreme cold to extreme hot. Hence, it is exceedingly important to secure a locale that is relatively stable, with regard to the natural temperature and humidity of said area. If the natural environment, where you intend to grow, has extreme changes in heat or humidity, then should not attempt to grow in that vicinity. It is a stark fact that such fluctuations in the environment cause cannabis plants to either die or become ill. It is also just as important to inspect other natural, but unwelcome, aspects of the environment like: bugs, pests, mold-these too can heavily impair your plants.
After finding a suitable location for your grow room, you should check to make sure you have the necessary equipment to control the atmosphere. The necessary paraphernalia to control an area are: a light supply, correct water and nutrient supply amount, air movement, and a ready source of carbon dioxide. If required, it is also important to have environmental control devices (i.e. dehumidifiers, heaters, coolers.)
Beginning
Once you have all the essential equipment, it is time to prepare your growing area. Initially you must seal off every opening that would permit outside light to enter the grow room. Seal every single window/opening up with black plastic and duct tape. In the event black plastic must cover a window that could possibly be seen by some hungry onlookers, you should place blinds in front of it, to produce the illusion of a plain dark room. Hopefully your company has enough money to bypass all of this and just grow it in a secure facility. If so, disregard the hungry onlooker reference.
After you have assured that no light will enter or escape, it is time to install any light reflective material, i.e. white paint or Mylar. Paint is less expensive, so use that if you are trying to keep your overhead costs down. If choose white paint, simply paint over the stable plastic-which should be fastened to the wall. If on the other hand, you choose Mylar, or any other type of material. You must fasten it to the wall, on top of the black plastic, with nails, staples, or thumb tacks.
Once you have completed the installation of your reflective material(s) you should install your light system. Positioning your light system usually requires hanging your lights, with chains, from a ceiling-or attaching it to a light mover. Your light system must be interchangeable with other spectrums, and must be able to be raised, or be lowered, according to the height of the plant. In other words, it should be easy to adjust, change, or otherwise move-without disturbing the plants.
One of the simplest techniques, used to make it possible to interchange light types, is to create temporary rafters. To do this you need to fasten two-by-fours to the walls of the room, with metal supports that are obtained at any local hard ware store. Subsequently, you fasten screw-in-hooks to the bottom of the two-by-fours, facing downward, so that chains can be hung from them. Next, you place climber hooks on the end of the chains that will be connecting directly to the lights. Now, you just simply hook up the lights to the correct ballast and keep them hanging at a relatively low position. This will allow you to adjust the light source up or down and it makes it very easy to exchange light sources. This advice is pretty much void if you are using a single light source, which only needs to move vertically, and dose not have to be exchanged with any other spectrum.
The next step is to install your ventilation system (this is discussed in a later page in detail), so refer to it. The general idea is to have air circulation, to prevent the air from becoming stale, and to shift heat from inside the grow room to the outside. At minimum, your ventilation system needs to perform the three functions mentioned above.
After you have taken care of the ventilation, it is time to install your carbon dioxide system. It is imperative to make sure that the carbon dioxide will be distributed evenly throughout the garden, and that it is only distributed when the ventilation system is off. In order to insure even distribution of CO2 you should purchase a distribution kit. This kit is composed of thin, hole- containing tubes, that are draped atop the grow room. It is not tremendously necessary to purchase a distribution kit, but you should figure a way to evenly distribute theCO2 if you choose to add it to your grow room.
At this point you have your CO2 system in place, if you are choosing to install one. Now it is time to ensure the CO2 only distributes when the ventilation system is off. There are three ways to do this. One you could uses electronic timers that turn one system on when the other is off; or two, you could manually turn the CO2 on when the ventilation is off. The second choice requires your undivided attention, daily, and is time consuming. While we prefer the first method it is really your preference. The third way is to hook everything up to one of those expensive control boxes that automatically disperses CO2.
Now it is time to position your hydroponic grow system. Make sure you have all the parts necessary, and have assembled the system. It is important to contemplate the placement of your system, before you actually put it in. Make sure you can easily access the reservoir(s) for exchanging water, nutrients and adjusting the pH. Once you have determined the right position, and have installed your system, you need to make sure it does not leak. Run pretest to confirm this.
Subsequently, you want to install your gauges, control boxes, thermometers, and dispersion kit controls-included. Install these in easy to reach places, so that you can change or adjust them with little interruption to the plants. Many have found that it is helpful to place these along the walls of the room. After you have read the directions of each system, and have hooked them up, you should do a test run.
The next step is to sanitize your garden with a five percent bleach solution made from five percent bleach and ninety-five percent water.
In consummation, these guidelines are just that, guidelines. Nothing is written in stone, so feel free to follow the order we set forth according to your own needs. Every step dose not have to be born inside the womb of the preceding step. However, as a general rule of thumb, it is best to follow the sequencing we have suggested, especially if you are a novice cropper. Step one, Step two-do this then that, so on and so forth. It is in your best interest!
After you sanitize your grow room you need to install any extra equipment you have, and then sanitize again.
Learn about The Hydroponic Bible
Ventilation and Air Circulation
Ventilation is very important to the indoor gardener because it keeps the levels of carbon dioxide, heat, and humidity at optimal range. It is vital to set up your ventilation system to vent when your garden is not distributing carbon dioxide.
In the beginning you need to calculate the volume of your room (discussed in CO2 chapter), this will tell you the volume of the air you need to remove to completely vent your room. You then need to buy a venting fan that will suck out that much volume in less than ten minutes. The ten-minute rule is simply implemented in order to be efficient, it is not absolutely necessary.
After that you place the vent fan(s) close to the ceiling, which will simultaneously allow heat to escape while permitting the heavier carbon dioxide gas to remain in the grow room. If it is placed close to the ground you will be venting CO2 and leaving the heat behind. If you do it that way, you will end up with an inefficient, humid garden that is wasting CO2
In order to serve as a suitable replacement for soil, the substrate must be capable of supporting the root system, accumulating moisture and nutrients. It should be inert, free of insects and diseases, and durable.
Moreover, the substrate should permit adequate aeration of the roots, and have first-rate drainage ability. Plants roots need sufficient access to oxygen from the air, in order to grow and take up water and nutrients. Poor drainage can lead to decreased growth, stunting, wilting, and discoloration of the leaves- in the worst cases “drowning the plant.”
There are several different types of growing mediums used in hydroponic gardening, none of which are soil. These mediums are considered to be inert because alone they have no nutritional value. As a substitute, a nutrient solution is supplied to them by some means. The most popular mediums for hydroponics are Rockwool, Gro-rox, Vermiculite, Perlite, and Coconut fiber. Sand and gravel are also used but must be thoroughly cleaned before use, which is a problem in its self. Each of these substances differs in size, volume, and color. But all of them are highly suitable for hydroponics.
Rockwool
This is probably the most commonly used medium in hydro systems. It is available in a variety of sizes. There are starter cubes that are used to germinate seeds, and can be used for cloning. Additionally, larger cubes are available that are used throughout every stage of plant growth. Rockwool absorbs up to forty times its weight of water, which keeps the roots very moist long after saturation. The only downside of using Rockwool is that it has a tendency to collect toxic mineral deposits, from the solution. So it becomes mandatory to flush out the cubes every few days with fresh water. The advantage to using Rockwool is that it is inexpensive and readily attainable.
Perlite
Perlite is not a brand name but a generic term for naturally occurring siliceous rock. The distinguishing feature, which sets Perlite apart from other volcanic glasses, is that when heated to a point it expands from four to twenty times its original volume. This expansion is due to the presence of water, in the rock. When briskly heated to above 1600 degrees F (871 degrees C), the crude rock pops in a manner similar to popcorn. As the water vaporizes it creates tiny pores. These pores give the rock its amazing lightweight, and its ability to absorb water. This expansion process also creates one of Perlites’ most distinguishing characteristics, its white color. While the crude rock may range from transparent to light gray, to a glossy black-the color of expanded Perlite looks snowy white, or grayish-white. Expanded Perlite can be manufactured to weigh as little as 2 pounds per cubic foot, which allows it to take up a great deal of space but at the same time weigh very little. Since Perlite is a form of natural glass and has a pH of approximately 7, it is classified as chemically inert. This medium is used in just about every system available on the market.
Vermiculite
Vermiculite is a natural rock, like Perlite, so it will not deteriorate, but it differs in composition. It is composed of silicates, and looks like crushed mica. It has fine aeration properties, but is not always neutral in pH. It tends to be alkaline (basic), and can be as high as 9.5 depending on where it was mined, so be sure to test it and adjust your nutrients accordingly. Vermiculite is very absorbent and can hold many times its weight in water. It must be used in containers because of its size. It is usually used in wick systems to help draw the solution upward.
Coconut Fiber
Coconut Fiber is an entirely natural medium that can be used in hydroponic systems. It is composed of organic compounds, which make it biodegradable- this can be messy. This medium holds water very well and can retain small amounts of nutrients. It is possible to reuse coconut fiber for two or three cycles, but we strongly recommend using a fresh batch each time you grow to prevent algae and diseases. A disadvantage to using the fiber is that particles from the fiber fall and saturate the solution, which in turn can clog pumps or tubes.
Fired Clay Pebbles
This is one of the more popular mediums for hydroponic cultivation. These clay pebbles are inexpensive; they are pH balanced, and can be reused numerous times. They are made by heating treated clay pebbles rapidly, which causes them to expand. They are porous and hold water. However, the clay pebbles do not retain the water well, so it would be best to use them in conjunction with coconut fiber, Rockwool, or Vermiculite. Begin your seeds or clones in another medium and then place them in the clay pebbles. The best clay pebbles are the ones that are irregular in shape, with many pores. Avoid the perfectly smooth ones because they will not hold the roots, or water, well.
Diahydro is a natural sedimentary rock medium that consists of the fossilized remains of diatoms. Diahydro is extremely high in Silica (87-94%), an essential component for the growth of plants and strengthening of cell walls.
Also known under the trademarks ‘Hydroton’ or LECA (light expanded clay aggregate), these small, round baked spheres of clay are inert and are suitable for hydroponic systems in which all nutrients are carefully controlled in water solution. The clay pellet is also inert, pH neutral and do not contain any nutrient value.
The clay is formed into round pellets and fired in rotary kilns at 1200°C. This causes the clay to expand, like popcorn, and become porous. It is light in weight, and does not compact over time. Shape of individual pellet can be irregular or uniform depending on brand and manufacturing process. The manufacturers consider expanded clay to be an ecologically sustainable and re-usable growing medium because of its ability to be cleaned and sterilized, typically by washing in solutions of white vinegar, chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), and rinsing completely.
Another viewpoint is clay pebbles are best not re-used even when they are cleaned due to root growth which may enter the medium. Breaking open a clay pebble after a crop has been grown will reveal this. However, this view is generally not widely shared.
Rockwool is probably the most widely used medium in hydroponics. Made from basalt rock it is heat-treated at high temperatures then spun back together like candy floss. It comes in lots of different forms including cubes, blocks, slabs and granulated or flock.
Rockwool is an excellent inert substrate for both ‘free drainage’ and recirculating systems. In free drainage or run-to-waste systems, the chance of disease spread is greatly lessened. Rockwool is also lightweight and self-contained, which allows plants to be grown at different densities in different stages - young plants can be grown to an advanced stage in a small area before being planted out into the main growing area, thus improving crop turnaround. Its light weight also permits setting up to be quick and inexpensive. Because it is light and rigid it eliminates back-breaking work in preparation and planting and gives substantial labor-saving costs. Rockwool is noted for providing a favourable root environment, thus minimizing plant stress. Root temperature can also be controlled, thus giving substantial energy savings. Rockwool initially causes an increase in pH level. You must adjust the pH level of the nutrient solution to counteract this. A pH level of 5.5-6.5 should suffice to create a suitable pH.
The disadvantages of rockwool are few. Although relatively inexpensive, because of its bulk, transport costs to remote regions can be prohibitive. However, the fact that it can be used several times over will reduce the growers overall costs. Before handling, gloves and long shirt sleeves should be worn to prevent minor skin irritation. This can also be lessened by wetting the rockwool before handling. When this medium is dry, care needs to be taken so as not to inhale any particles; inhaling such particles may carry a health risk.
Coco peat, also known as coir or coco, is the leftover material after the fibres have been removed from the outermost shell (bolster) of the coconut. It took 10 centuries to make this waste a viable plant substrate. The first description of the coco process dates from the 11th century and was recorded by Arabian traders. In 1290, Marco Polo described the process of extracting fibres from coconuts. For centuries, this process remained unchanged. Coco peat was a waste product from factories that used coco fibre as a raw material for making sailing ropes, chair seats and mattress fillings.
Coco is a 100% natural grow and flowering medium, which has proven its value across years and years. Coco is not only a high quality product, but also an environmentally friendly product[The Hydroponic Bible]. For many years the raw material was considered waste material, and enormous useless “Coco Mountains” appeared in the landscapes of countries like Sri Lanka and India. By developing a special biological composting process this “waste” transformed into a high quality product. This innovation was, and still is, an important contributor to the local economy of India and Sri Lanka. This and the unique growth characteristics ensure coco is the medium of the moment and the future.
The coco substrate is an environmentally friendly product. No energy wasteful production methods are used during the production of this long-lasting cultivation medium. Coconut fibres are obtained from the coconuts’ husks which are a natural product that can be harvested throughout the year. Coir comes in bags and in slabs.
Some types of coir are very high in sodium (salt) due to the nature of coconut palms growing on island environments and being processed in the salt air. Quality coir has not been sterilized or heat treated and so retains its natural sponge-like qualities as well as the natural, beneficial trichoderma fungi which has been scientifically shown to combat root rot and other diseases.[The Hydroponic Bible] Trichoderma is also well-known for promoting root growth.[citation needed]
This substrate combines the tolerant, organic nature of soil with the precision of rockwool. Due to the special characteristics of the substrate the nutrient doesn’t have a grow and flower variant, there is just one unique formulation for both growth and blooming phase. Due to the unique buffering capability of the coir substrate, and its sponge-like structure, the nutrients needed to ensure high yields are stored in the coco. This means that the plant itself can regulate the amount and timing of its nutrient intake.
Coconut fibres have sufficient capillary action to retain enough water and nutrients. This means that the plant can go for longer periods with-out water, which could happen if a feeding pump was to break down for example.
Quality coir can be used a number of times and makes an excellent soil improver after use.
Perlite is a volcanic rock that has been superheated into very lightweight expanded glass pebbles. It is used loose or in plastic sleeves immersed in the water. It is also used in potting soil mixes to decrease soil density. Perlite has similar properties and uses to vermiculite but generally holds more air and less water. If not contained, it can float if flood and drain feeding is used.
Like perlite, vermiculite is another mineral that has been superheated until it has expanded into light pebbles. Vermiculite holds more water than perlite and has a natural “wicking” property that can draw water and nutrients in a passive hydroponic system. If too much water and not enough air surrounds the plants roots, it’s possible to gradually lower the medium’s water-retention capability by mixing in increasing quantities of perlite.
Sand is cheap and easily available. However, it is heavy, it does not always drain well, and it must be sterilized between use.
The same type that is used in aquariums, though any small gravel can be used, provided it is washed first. Indeed, plants growing in a typical traditional gravel filter bed, with water circulated using electric powerhead pumps, are in effect being grown using gravel hydroponics. Gravel is inexpensive, easy to keep clean, drains well and won’t become waterlogged. However, it is also heavy, and if the system doesn’t provide continuous water, the plant roots may dry out.
Brick shards have similar properties to gravel. They have the added disadvantages of possibly altering the pH and requiring extra cleaning before reuse.
Polystyrene packing peanuts are inexpensive, readily available, and have excellent drainage. However, they can be too lightweight for some uses. They are mainly used in closed tube systems. Note that polystyrene peanuts must be used; biodegradable packing peanuts will decompose into a sludge. Plants may absorb styrene and pass it to their consumers; this is a possible health risk
Lighting is the catalyst for photosynthesis, without it photosynthesis ceases to occur. Artificial lighting is a fantastic way to supply energy needed for plant growth, without depending on the sun for energy.
Photosynthesis
Plants require a constant supply of energy to grow, and this energy comes from light. In nature, plants receive light from the sun. There are various types of artificial lights that provide differing light spectrums. Every source of light has light spectrums. Before learning about these artificial lights, it is important to understand how plants use light in the growth process (discussed in the CO2 Chapter). Fundamentally, photosynthesis provides energy to the plant.
Light Spectrums
Cannabis needs specific spectrums mainly red and blue, to produce sugars. White light, as it comes from the sun, is composed of waves of every spectrum. The band of colors that compose the visible spectrum of light (that which we can see) include, starting with the longest rays: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. Much of the red, blue, indigo and violet wavelengths are absorbed and used in photosynthesis while the green and most of the yellow/orange are barely used in photosynthesis.
Lamp Types and Description:
Ø H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) Lights: Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps belong to the HID family of lights. They are used for garden lighting because of their high light output per watt, and the favorable spectral distribution of their light.
Ø Metal Halide - This type of light provides the consumer with a favorable blue light spectrum distribution. One of their strongest characteristics, is they are low on the light spectrum range (around the 400 to 500 nanometers range). This is called the blue side of the light spectrum. The blue spectrum promotes vegetative plant growth. It helps stimulate strong stems, and picture perfect leaves, which are all needed for flowering. Another positive aspect of Metal Halide lamps is the relatively low heat out puts. They are found in many different styles; such, as clear (which puts out more light energy for growth), or frosted (which puts out less light energy, but are easier to work under because there is less of a glare). They range in wattage outputs, starting at 75 watts all the way to 1000 watts. The most popular of these bulbs is the 400 and 1000-watt models.
Ø Sodium Lamps - HPS- This type of light source provides the consumer with a favorable light spectrum distribution. Its light spectrum range is around 600 to 700 nanometers, which is known as the red-orange spectrum range. They are predominately used during the flowering stage. In order for a plant to flower properly it must be exposed to the red side of the light spectrum, as well as the blue side. They are commonly known for there ability to stimulate bud growth. This type of lamp is also found in clear and frosted models, with a range from 75 to 1000 watts. The most commonly used are the 400 and 1000-watt size.
Ø Son-T AGRO Lamps - is some of the most widely used and commonly found in indoor gardens. They are favored because of their high versatility, represent, both the blue and red light spectrum, just like the sun. Red is the dominating spectrum making up 70 % of the light production and the blue the other 30 %. This makes this type of light very easy to work with. It is useful if you have only one grow room, or you just want to save the trouble of switching out lights. It stimulates both vegetative growth and flowering. They do not consume a lot of energy, which makes these lamps moderately cost effective. You can find this type of lamp from the 75 to 1000 watt ranges, with 400 and 1000 watts being the most commonly used. A great feature of this type of lamp is that it has two inner arch tubes. If one arch goes out, the other will ignite so that there is no disruption in light supply.
Ø Retort Fit Bulbs - These are specialty bulbs you can purchase to easily convert your Metal Halide lamp into an HPS, and vice-verse. The major difference between these bulbs, and other bulbs, is that they have an igniter inside the lamp. You can find them in sizes from 75 to 1000 watts. They are used for both flowering and vegetative growth.
Ø Florescent Tubes - These bulbs have long been used for indoor gardening. Although this type of lighting is not the best for growing or flowering, it is a great source of light for seedlings, sprouts and clones. The rationale for this is that florescent light stimulates root growth. This type of light produces very little heat, so you can keep the light source very close to the young plants, and in tern they can absorb more energy.
Ø Ultra Violet Light- These lights actually cause the cannabis to produce more THC during flowering. This light source should be used in conjunction with other light and should only be used during flowering for thirty minutes a day. The plants should only be exposed to this light in three intervals of ten minutes, with a thirty-minute rest in between each interval. If it is used any more than thirty minutes a day it could damage the plants.
Ø Ballast or Control Box- Most HID lamps must be used in conjunction with a “control box”. The reason for this box is the lamps require a regulated flow of energy. The control boxes are separated into two different categories. The first one is the constant flow type. All it does is insure there is a continual flow of energy to the lamp. It means just what the name implies. This type of control box is more expensive in terms of its energy intake, because of the higher use of electricity. The second type is the controlled flow. It less expensive, than the other types of control boxes, because it uses less electricity. This is also referred to as ballast. No need for this if you are using florescent tubes. However remember to purchase the right kind of ballast that corresponds to your light type. Otherwise you are wasting your time and your money. You can easily blow out bulbs, if you do not use the right type of ballast or control box.
When shopping for a lamp, there are some questions you should ask yourself. The seven most important are:
1. Lamp effectiveness. Will it/they provide enough light?
2. Total light and heat output. How hot dose it/they get?
3. Grow room dimensions. How many will I need?
4. Special plant requirements. Do I need to focus on a particular spectrum?
5. Spectral distribution. Do they provide the correct spectrums?
6. What will work for me?
7. What can the company afford?
Electric Bill
It is very imperative you calculate how much your electric bill will increase, before you start to grow to project overhead.
If you are trying to do this illegally against our recommendations, note the electric companies watch your wattage consumption. If they suspect you of growing, or just want to know why such a little place is using so much energy, they will investigate. This may lead to the discovery of your grow room, and place you smack dab in the middle of a trial. If you think this is doesn’t apply to you should consider the fact that employees, who catch you, receive money form the authorities, in the amount of two thousand dollars
.
|
Lamp |
Coverage |
Cost per hr. |
Spectrum |
|
Metal Halide |
|
|
|
|
175 Watt |
2′ x 2′ (4 sq ft) |
$0.14 |
Blue |
|
Full Spectrum |
|
|
|
|
250 Watt |
3′ x 3′ (9 sq ft) |
$0.20 |
Full spectrum. |
|
High Pressure Sodium |
|
|
|
|
150 Watt |
2′ x 2′ (4 sq ft) |
$0.12 |
Orange/Red light. |
The Wick System
A user friendly system is the Wick system, also known as the passive system. It is referred to as the Wick system because many of these systems actually use a wick to draw the nutrient-solution upward, towards the root system. It is also called passive because it does not use any electronic device to move the nutrients from the reservoir to the roots. When you purchase this system a pump is included in it. The pump (more a bubbler) is simply used to aerate the water, and is not for any other use.
The wick system works by suspending the roots or a wick in a small reservoir of solution water. The wick soaks the nutrients up and allows the nutrients to reach the root system, which grows around the wick towards the reservoir-eventually reaching the solution. The solution is circulated within the reservoir, to aerate it, and to provide an even distribution of nutrients throughout the entire solution. In this system, as with all other systems, the root structure is supported by an inert growing medium that is placed above the reservoir.
The ultimate advantage of this system is that it is virtually self-regulating, with regard to nutrient supply. There are very few parts to break, and even fewer logistics to master. The foremost impressive aspect of this system is it reliability. This is a result of the natural way in which water is supplied to the roots, via the wick.
Light Spectrums
Cannabis needs specific spectrums mainly red and blue, to produce sugars. White light, as it comes from the sun, is composed of waves of every spectrum. The band of colors that compose the visible spectrum of light (that which we can see) include, starting with the longest rays: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. Much of the red, blue, indigo and violet wavelengths are absorbed and used in photosynthesis while the green and most of the yellow/orange are barely used in photosynthesis. (www.hydroponicsonline.com)
If you use the correct spectrums, you can increase the productivity of the plant. Using HID lights have the utmost results of all the lights sources available on the market. They focus the proper spectrums of light needed during the different stages of growth.
During the vegetative phase the plants respond pleasantly to the blue light-a spectrum the plants favor during this phase of growth. The blue light promotes vegetative growth including the development of roots, stocks, and leaves. The light helps build a strong foundation that helps the plant support buds. During flowering plants demand a higher concentration of red-orange light that, in fact, encourages budding. Some people try to use just one source through out all the stages of growth, and they find that the stems become elongated, or their plants fall over and die, or they develop weird deficiencies.
Signs of Light Deficiencies:
Stretching toward the light source
Elongation of stems
Deformities
Dose not bud
Light Spectrums and Phases
|
Wavelength |
Used In Vegetative |
Used In |
|
Infrared |
|
|
|
Red |
X |
X |
|
Orange |
|
X |
|
Yellow |
|
X |
|
Green |
|
X |
|
Blue |
X |
|
|
Indigo |
X |
|
|
Violet |
X |
|
|
Ultraviolet |
|
If added increases THC |
Carbon is the basis for all life on earth due to its versatile bonding configurations. Carbon can bond to itself; can form single bonds (alkanes), double bonds (alkenes), triple bonds (alkynes), rings, and chains. Carbon is the first element in group IV. It is a nonmetal with an atomic number of six and an atomic mass of approximately 12. Carbon has four electrons in its outer shell and forms covalent bonds. Carbon is quite inert at ordinary temperatures, but it combines with oxygen at moderate temperatures making it an important reducing agent for metallic oxides.
What does this mean?
Increasing the basis for all life will increase yield!
An example, Grower X sits erect, right hand holding onto an extremely large bud-left hand holding on a descent size bud. They are exactly the same strain, started at the same time, grown using the exact same solution poured from the same 5-gallon bucket, and grown for exactly the same length of time. Why then, dose the bud in his right hand weigh 4 grams more than the one in his left? The two buds were grown in two separate rooms, but all the growing conditions were kept the same except for one variation. The bud in his right hand was grown in a carbon-rich environment.
Photosynthesis is the process by which plants use the sun’s energy, carbon dioxide and water to produce glucose. The glucose is produced to be used as energy when there is no light available, and is needed for cellular respiration. Photosynthesis begins when a photon from the sun strikes a chloroplast (located on a plant leaf), and bounces an electron on the chlorophyll. The electron can either return back to where it came from, Cyclic Cycle, or the electron can be replaced by a H+ molecule from water (non-cyclic cycle). When the non-cyclic begins the original electron is transferred to a NAD+ to form NADH. The NADH and some Andronstein Triphosphate (ATP) then go to the Calvin cycle. This is where the carbon dioxide is used to make glucose C6H12O6. The plant then combines these starches and nitrogen to create tissue growth. This new tissue is sixty- percent carbon. Therefore, if you have saturated carbon levels in your grow room it will enable the plants to produce more tissue and your plants will weigh more, as a result.
Carbon dioxide is measured in ppm (parts per million) and in the earth’s atmosphere the normal level is about 400 ppm. Raising the ppm in your controlled environment to 1600-1900 ppm, will allow your plants to double, or even triple their production.
It is not necessary to add carbon dioxide to a grow room, but remember it can increase your crop and make the pot much more potent. The patients will appreciate it! If you choose not to included this feature in your grow room it is still possible to produce a beautiful crop- it‘s just not as marketable.
There are many different ways to make and obtain CO2. The best method is to lease the cylinders of carbon dioxide from a local welding supply house, or buy them. The prices for renting vary, but in general, a carbon dioxide canister can rented for a hundred-dollar deposit and twenty dollars to fill the tank. A twenty-pound tank will last you about two month’s, maybe a little more, depending on your dispersion methods- more importantly depending on the number of plants. There are many different size tanks, the bigger the tank the longer it will last of course.
We favor an emitter system even though one pound of carbon dioxide only displaces about eight cubic feet of air. This system is easier to set up than any other automated system we have encountered. This system is also environmentally friendly compared to other systems that release gases, which add to the greenhouse effect and deplete the ozone layer. This system is virtually self- regulating and is very clean, in terms of exhaust. It is also is capable of dispersing carbon dioxide evenly though out the garden because of the tubing kits included that disperses CO2 above the plants. A complete system including; a solenoid valve, a regulator, a flow meter and a timer, usually will run you 300 dollars. Just a little advice, it is best to purchase your emitter as a complete kit to avoid miss-matching the parts. However, if you do not buy a full kit then it is important that you at least buy a regulator and a timer. Remember that it is important, not necessary, to have a full working system. A regulator will usually run you about 200 dollars and a timer can vary between ten and one hundred dollars. If your company can afford it- then dismiss the cheap suggestion.
The basic CO2 tank system has:
· 20 lb tank $100
· Regulator $159
· Timer or controller $10-125
Another very popular type of hydro-system is the ebb & flow, also known as flood and drain. This system setup resembles a dam. The root structure is placed in pots filled with the growing medium. The pots contain holes in the bottom and the sides that serve a dual purpose. The holes allow the roots to soak up nutrients and drain the nutrients. These pots are kept in an open topped base, which is periodically immersed in five inches of nutrient solution from the reservoir via a pump, which is typically located below the flood base. Then the nutrients drain back into the reservoir to await future use.
This system usually comes in very small versions and is ideal for a small scale study. This system also allows the cultivator to maximize his growing space. It is also very easy to transport.
First, you must understand how to figure out how much carbon dioxide is needed to produce optimal CO2levels for plant growth, and how it should be emitted.
So first some basic math Volume=L x W x H
L=length of room
W=width of room
H=height of room
We will express this as V = L x W x H. To start with measure the length, width, and height of the room- then multiply them all together. Say the length of the room was 2, the width was 2, and the height was 2. This would give us the equation V = 2 x 2 x 2 which equals eight (V = 8 cubic feet).
The next step is to multiply V times .00132 to give you how much carbon dioxide you should add, to bring the room to three times the normal carbon dioxide level-also known as optimal level.
Example:
W = 12 ft.
H = 10 ft.
L = 8 ft.
V = (12 x 10 x 
= 960 ft.
960 x (.00132) = 1.2672 cubic feet
This means that you will need to add 1.3 cubic feet of carbon dioxide to the room at initially. Succeeding the initial dispersing you will have to set a timer 1/2 the original amount (1.3/2), every hour and a half (90 minutes), or do it manually.
With every system discussed here you must understand that all the previous rules are applicable with respect to pH, nutrients, temperature, lights, CO2 and ventilation. The only thing that truly differs between each type of system is the method in which each system delivers the nutrients to the root system.
Simple Set Ups
The simplest hydroponic system for low, low, budget companies is a non-recycling system consisting of well-drained containers filled with an acceptable substrate (see the section on mediums). The nutrient solution is mixed, and then it is applied, one to three times daily, using a simple watering can.
The most economical system utilizes a recycling system, which involves collecting and reusing excess solution. The simplest version of this technique involves placing a large dish under the plant container to catch the solution and then pouring the solution back over the plant at regular intervals.
A larger-scale version of the recycling method involves using a container that has a hose and an outlet an inch or two from its base. The container must be raised off the floor and tilted so that the nutrient solution drains through the outlet into a receptacle. These simple hand-fed methods work best with small-scale systems. For larger systems, a submersible pump can be used to pump the solution back into the container from the receptacle.
Using Recycled Material to Make a System
Use containers such as plastic water jugs, etc. 2-liter soda bottles work great. This saves you tons of money, but is labor intensive. Simply fill the containers with a rocky growing medium, something that can create space for the roots. Then you add a bubbler to supply air to the roots. You now have a basic hydro system. Be sure to sterilize all containers before each planting, with a chlorine bleach solution.
A simple ebb-n-flow
While conducting research for this book I stumbled across a simple ebb and flow Hydroponic system, online, from hydroponicsonline.com. It can be built with some basic components: a bucket, a tub, tubing, and a growing medium. In my opinion the system they suggest to make is simple:
1 bucket for your nutrient reservoir (2- 5 gallons)
1 tub for your plant bed (approximately l’ x 2′ x 6″)
3 ft. plastic tubing, 1/2″ diameter
enough Growing Medium to fill the base
silicone or epoxy glue
drill with 1/2″ bit
2″ x 2″ piece of plastic screen or mesh
1 rubber band
nutrient solution
1. Drill a 1/2″ hole on the side of the bucket, about 1″
from the bottom
2. Insert the hose into the hole in the bucket and seal
the edges of the hole with the glue.
3. Drill a 1/2″ hole in the side of the tub (plant bed)
about 1″ from the bottom.
4. Insert the other end of the tubing into the hole in the plant bed, allowing the end of the tubing to protrude 2″ through the bucket. Seal the edges of the hole with the glue. Allow time for the glue to dry.
5. Wrap the piece of screen around the end of the tubing that comes through the side of the plant bed and secure with the rubber band. This prevents the growing medium from clogging the tube.
6. Pour the growing medium into the tub, filling it to I” below the rim. The Ebb and Flow hydroponic garden is now ready for nutrient solution and planting.
7. Fill your bucket with the mixed nutrient solution. Lift the bucket (higher than the grow bed) and allow the solution to run from the bucket into the grow bed. You can place the bucket on something higher than the grow bed while waiting for the nutrient solution to drain into the grow bed. When the growing medium is saturated, lower the bucket so the solution can drain back into the bucket.
8. Once your growing medium is saturated, you can plant your seeds. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting depth. Or use starter plants from your local nursery. Carefully wash the lose medium from the bedding plant roots before putting the plants in the plant bed.
9. Once you have planted the seeds, the growing medium will need to be kept moist with nutrient solution. This is done by raising the bucket (flooding the grow bed) and lowering the bucket (draining the grow bed). This should be done several times a day to maintain a proper moisture level in the growing medium surrounding the plant roots.
You can automate this hydroponic garden by adding a small pump in your nutrient reservoir to flood the grow bed and a timer to start and stop the pump. Hydroponicsonline.com has a perfect example of a cheap alternative to mainstream systems.
This type of system is typically used in commercial farming that involves a large number of plants. This system supplies nutrients by utilizing half tubes or pipes. These tubes, which are slightly angled, allow nutrients to flow over the roots. The nutrient solution flows over, and through, the growing medium/ root structure, until it collects at the reservoir that is located at the lowest point of the system. The nutrient solution is then recycled, and the whole process begins again. If you plan on growing a large number of plants look into one of these systems.
In addition to the systems that require a substrate, there are non-aggregate methods such as water culture and Aeroponics. In water culture, the plant’s roots are kept submerged in the nutrient solution. The plants are supported by a grid of wire, rope, or string or by coarse screening. This method, however, introduces aeration problems and requires an aquarium pump to bubble oxygen into the nutrient solution.
Aeroponics works under the same principals as hydroponics, but instead of submerging the roots in the nutrient solution it uses a vaporizer to constantly mist the roots with the solution-think rainforest. The plants are kept in small net pots filled with a growing medium, and are located above a bucket. The bucket is sealed so that no light reaches the solution inside. Located inside the bucket is a vaporizer. Its purpose is to distribute in the form of an extremely fine mist, which the roots absorb. The nutrients drip back down the roots and sides of the bucket until it falls back down to the bottom of the bucket where it collects and is re-vaporized.
The greatest advantage of using this method/system is that the roots are constantly exposed to the atmosphere, which increases the amount of oxygen supplied to the roots. The more oxygen the roots are exposed to, the faster they can absorb nutrients, resulting in faster plant growth.
This system is primarily used for cloning plants. Its process of nutrient delivery encourages the cuttings to produce roots very fast. This system is commonly used to bring the cuttings to a full vegetative stage then it is removed, and the plants are relocated to another growing system.
How many gallons will your system hold?
To calculate how many gallons your containers will hold; first calculate the Cubic inches of the container, then multiply the number by 0.0043 to covert cubic inches to gallons.
Step 1, Calculate the cubic inches of the container:
For round containers, use the following formula: (radius in inches, squared) x (Height in inches) x 3.14.
For square or rectangular containers use (Height in inches) x (Width in inches) x (Depth in inches).
Step 2, Take the number of Cubic inches and multiply by: 0.0043
For example, a cylindrical container that is 10″ x 5″ X 10″ tall:
average radius squared= 14.06 inches (the average diameter is 7.5, half of that is 3.75, (3.75X3.75=14.06)
X height in inches=10 X 14.06= 140.6
X 3.14= 441.484 Cubic inches
X 0.004329= 1.9 gallons.
Another, less mathematical approach, would be to fill one gallon jugs with water and pour them into your container until it is full. Count the number of jugs added, and that will be how many gallons of nutrient your container holds
Germinating Seeds
First only obtain seeds that are brown, or gray in color. Seeds that are white, or small, are immature and should not be used
. It is very important to use nutrient solution sparingly during germination- the best results will come from a mixture of about five drops per gallon/per nutrient. It is best to merely start with a water soaked paper towel, or to begin with a water soaked medium. Place your seeds in the paper towel, or medium- it is imperative that you make sure each seed is completely covered. Afterward, you drain off any excess water and place the seedlings into a zip lock baggy, or some air tight container. At this point you can add a little CO2 into the container and seal it-blowing into the bag/container also works well. The carbon dioxide exerted into the zip lock bag/container will create the atmospheric conditions cannabis favors. This will stimulate the seeds to sprout. After you have completed the preceding steps store your soon-to-be sprout-lings some place warm, preferably under a low watt light (look at lighting section for details). Make sure your towel, or growing medium, stays damp at all times. Failure to do so could kill the fragile sprouts.
In order to apply this technique to your crop you need to first tie the plant you wish to supercrop, to one side of the system. Now gently bend the plant, in a horizontal motion, ninety degrees, and secure it in place-so that it is stationary at ninety degrees. Make sure the top of the plant is bent at or below the nodes. Whatever you do-do not force the plant so much that it breaks, or can no longer stand on its own. This technique forces the plant to redistribute its energy and resources to fix the bend. The result is decelerated vertical growth, which keeps the plant bonsai-like. You will have to retie the plants, daily, because they will grow back towards the light. After the bend appears to be permanent, you should untie the branch and bend it again, inward, toward other plants. This process is repeated until the desired outcome is achieved.
Another way to supercrop is called the FIM technique. This method is used to produce more growing shoots and simultaneously keep the plant bushy. It involves cutting off 85% of the growing shoot and leaving 15% intact. From the remaining 15%, up to 6 branches emerge. This is due to the rapidly dividing cells of the shoot that grow in every direction. The purpose of this technique is, again, to slow down vertical growth, but also to produce more branches for budding.
How to Increase the THC Content Using Light
For a traditional cropper, Grower-X sure does a lot of experimenting with Indoor lighting. Among his favorite ads is the black light. He has tried many different techniques, timing and combinations, with this light source. He has found that a black light can be utilized best in small amounts once or twice daily. He explained to us that if you bombard the plants with ultraviolet “photons”, it will cause the cannabis to produce more THC. The plant actually is attempting to protect itself from the harmful rays, and it just so happens that THC is it sunscreen. He was quick to point out, “this should only be done during the flowering stage“, and that this light source should be used in conjunction with your normal light source(s). In his experience he has found that the plants should only be exposed to this light in three intervals, of ten minutes, with a thirty-minute rest in between each interval, at a maximum of thirty minutes a day. If it is used any more than thirty minutes a day it could damage the plants.
As you already know, you need pollen from the males to breed. The males start to show signs of flowering around 2 to 4 weeks before females. At this time, they should be moved to a different area, somewhere away from the females. This is done so the males do not accidentally pollinate the females with weak pollen. The floors in the male grow room should be covered with paper, or glass, to catch the pollen as the plant releases it. Before they begin producing pollen observe the traits of each male, and discard the weak or undesired ones. Later, you will scrape the pollen off the glass into a bag, or collect the paper off the floor. However, it is not necessary to collect pollen this way. You could devise your own way to collect the pollen, the possibilities are endless. The point is not the method by which you collect the pollen, but rather the focus should be on keeping the males and females separate. The method of collection was just used to give you a general idea of how to collect pollen.
There may come a point in time that you choose to produce seeds. This is usually done save them for future use. Sometimes people simply want to try a fresh strain and do not want to use cloned replicas of previous plants for one reason or another. In order to do this people must breed their plants.
With the right breeding method, it is possible to breed plants that grow, flower and mature faster than the parental plants. It’s best to use plants that already naturally exhibit these extraordinary traits. For example, it is best to pair off a fast maturing plant with a highly potent one to obtain both qualities of the parental plants.
Stages of Growth
It is exceedingly important to be acquainted with the various stages of growth for the marijuana plant-particularly if you are attempting to grow in an Indoor-Hydroponic garden. Environmental needs will change as the plant(s) develop- predominantly with regard to lighting and nutrient supply at first.
Vegetative growth
After the plant has sprouted, it begins the vegetative growth stage. This is when the plants energy is focused on growing the plant in height and width. All plants have a vegetative stage. And, it is this stage that can predetermine the plants future health. If you do not nourish your plants appropriately; or do not supply the plants with the correct amount of light- You could cause your plants to develop in such a weak manner, that they would be real susceptible to disease or wilting in the future. As plants enter the vegetative stage the concentration of the solution is increased, which increases the amount of nitrogen. The plants are kept on a high N nutrient solution until you begin flowering (see nutrient section).
For the duration of this stage the plants grow with little or no dark period. The constant light increases the speed, at which they grow, by 20-30%. The lights should be on endlessly because the plants do not require a dark period, until they reach flowering. So make an effort to keep lights on for a minimum of 18 hours per day.
During the premature stages of vegetative growth you should bend the plant’s stems back and forth, in a slight side to side motion, to force the stems to develop stability and strength. Weak stems will not support heavy flowering and usually bend as a result. An oscillating fan, pointed directly at the plants, will help improve stem strength as well.
A plant begins to fruit or flower when dark cycles of between 10-13 hours are introduced. The only special requirement during this stage is to keep the dark period dark, with no light interruptions.
Dark periods are mandatory for cannabis plants to flower. Plants will seldom flower if they are exposed to consistent light. Flowering requires lamps to be on a timed sequence that generates a regular, strict, dark period. After three weeks of strict dark periods, the schedule can be relaxed a little because the flowering stage, by this time, has already begun and there is no going back.
It is important that during the
FLOWERING PHASE
The dark period schedule should not be interrupted. Due to hormones in the plant that react to light you will delay flower development if it becomes intermittent. A green light should be used if it is necessary to work in the garden during the dark period. It will have no damaging effect on the plants. All of this notwithstanding, too avoid entering the grow room during dark periods-set the timers to turn off when you would normally not enter the garden.Flowering plants should be kept on a strict light regimen of 12 hours a day, after the initial three weeks (discussed above)-on average of one to two weeks.
Ostensibly, longer dark periods will speed the maturity of the flowers, but should only be used toward the end of the flowering cycle because introducing long dark periods too soon can make the flowers grow into underdeveloped buds. Consequently, if you choose to exploit the expedience of longer dark periods it will decrease the yield by a small amount.
Flowering plants like high P level foods, such as 5-50-17, or 10-20-10. Nutrients should be provided with each watering and old nutrients should be removed and replaced with new. Trace elements are necessary too: try to find nutrients that contain them; so you don’t have to add a separate trace element compound.
Flowering plants should not be sprayed with anything water based, otherwise, you could promote mold. Keep humidity levels indoors low when flowering to avoid any mold development while flowering.
When
A plant is ample enough to flower at a height of 12″ or over, or around a total of 100 days of vegetative growing. Flowering is usually detected 1-2 weeks
The Hydroponic Bible
after a dark period has been introduced. If you see white hairs emerging from between its internodes, it has begun to flower. Moreover, white hairs confirm the plant(s) is female.
Three to weeks after the dark period is introduced, your plants should be covered with white pistils emerging from every grow tip, assuming they are all female of course. These are the flowers- the beginning of the almighty girl, the bud! When you want the flowers to mature after your regiment of twelve hours a day- you need to turn the lights back to 7-10 hours a day.
The plants will ripen, and should be ready to harvest in 2-4 weeks. Wait for the white hairs to turn red, orange, or brown. And, the false seed pods to bloat with resin or seeds. When 80 % of the pistils have turned color the flowers are ripe and ready to be harvested
Marijuana is a genus of plant that reproduces sexually, which means the plant has male and female counter parts. The male plant develops pollen -essentially the same as human sperm. The female on the other hand, produces buds that contain tiny sacs which await pollenazation from the male. If the sacs are pollinated, seeds will develop. If the female buds are not pollinated then the sacs jam with potent THC molecules.
Most people promote crops that are entirely female, and do not produce seeds. To facilitate this you must first identify and remove all male plants. So the question arises, how do I determine the gender of the plant? Although we touched base on this in the previous chapter we must go over it in detail here.
You can ascertain the sex of each plant approximately two weeks after you begin to force the plants to flower. After two weeks on the flowering cycle, when the first flowers of male and female become visible, you need to identify the differences between the two. To distinguish between the two, look for the male flowers which are identified by small round pods hanging below the major internodes of the leaves. The females’ flowers grow in small clusters of leaves-with small white pistols sticking protruding from them. These pistols are the sticky receptors for the pollen.
After you have identified the males, gently remove them from your garden and dispose of them, or place them in another grow room if you plan to breed your plants. Be careful not to shake the male plants while relocating them because you could break open the pollen sacs, which will pollinate your plants and cause the females to become saturated with seeds. If you let your male and female plants grow together you will produce seeds, it is inevitable.
The Hydroponic Bible
It’s possible to differentiate between the sexes very early. To do this cover the lower branch of the plant in question for 14 hours a day, while the rest of the plant remains in light and is kept on a vegetative cycle. A black paper bag, or equivalent, should be used to cover the branch. This type of cover allows the leaves to exchange gases like CO, while keeping out light. After a couple of weeks you will see signs of advanced development on the covered branch. It will either show signs of a male reproductive system, or of a female reproductive system. This denotes the sex of the entire plant.
A magnifying glass should be used to look at the small signs of gender development. A male plant will have a small nut looking pre-flower with a small stem under it. A female flower usually will have small white hairs emerging from an immature calyx. This is a time consuming process and can set the plants back 2 weeks in terms of growth. So do not pre-force plants unless you have time to spare.
Nutrient Monitoring Daily Check list:
To make certain your plants getting the proper nutrients and concentrations, check your nutrient solution daily with the checklist below. Make sure all readings fall within the suggested ranges.
1. Nutrient concentrations
2. pH
3. Temperature of solution
Mature plants process a surprisingly large amount of water. For instance, a fully-grown cannabis plant may consume up to a gallon of water a day. An inadequate water supply can limit the plants growth. Water deficiencies can cause the plant to focus all its available energy on developing an extensive root system to absorb whatever water is available. This will result in a small, weak cannabis plant. It is very essential to pay close attention to water levels; they need to be checked daily.
Types of Water
In preceding blog we discussed nutrients and its importance. The next step, it might appear, should be to discuss pH . However for seasoned croppers there is intermediate step, choosing water type. If you can, avoid using tap water because it has chlorine in it, which will causes your crop to harden. . Distilled water works great; it has no added chemicals and does not contain any elements that can interfere with a solution. (Never use fluorinated water.)
When using tap water, always use the water from your cold water pipe never the hot water. Hot water pipes contain a lot more calcium build up in it than cold pipes, and your nutrient solution usually provides all calcium your plants need. Water from a hot water line will create a solution imbalance, which can poison your plants. Do not worry about your calcium levels becoming toxic if you use the cold tap water- it probably will not happen unless you have extremely hard water.
Why do you need to determine whether you have hard water or not? It is simple, hard water causes a build up of those trace elements we mentioned earlier, which cause fluctuations in your nutrient solutions. It is possible to identify this problem relatively easy. Usually the pH of the water will be slightly basic, without any additives. The most vexing problem with hard water, however, is how basic it is. Usually large amounts of acid are needed to balance the pH. We recommend you purchase twice as much acid as base when using hard water.
Soft water on the other hand lacks the abundant amount of salts necessary to cause a build up. To identify soft water, deduce whether or not you have hard water. If you do not, then you have soft water. Soft water does not present any real problems; in fact, it is the same as buying water at the store (for our use any way).
If you only have a relatively small number of plants we recommend you add small amounts mineral water, to the distilled, or tap water. This type of water contains important trace elements that help plant growth. It also contains bicarbonate, which is a great source of CO2. This type of water should only be used in small proportions, and in conjunction with another type of water- preferably distilled water. You should mix the two types of water in a fifty-fifty mixture.
Foliar Feeding
Foliar feeding is one of the easiest ways to increase both yield and quality. It is the process of feeding the plant through its vegetative growth-the leaves, stems etc… It can be used in conjunction with, or without CO2, and should be used in conjunction with root feeding.
How and When
The best time to Foliar feed is right before you turn your lights on, or three hours after you turn them off. The stomata of the leaves are wide open at this time and allow for better absorption of nutrients. The temperature should be about 72 degrees. If the temperature reaches over 80 the stomata’s will close and the plant will not absorb the nutrients properly. A sprayer or mister should be used to convert the solution to a very fine mist. Make sure the pH is normal, just like any other solution 6-6.3. A wetting agent should be used to prevent the nutrients from beading up, and burning the leaves.
Foliar feeding is also used as good way to get nutrients to the plant when nutrient lockup problems occur where the nutrient intake from the roots is hindered.
WARNING: It is important to wash leaves that are harvested before they are dried.
pH is a measure of free-floating hydrogen (H+) ions in any solution and is the measure of the acidity of the solution . The complete opposite of pH is pOH, or amount of hydroxide ions (OH-) in a solution and is the measure of the solutions alkalinity. A high level of OH- means the solution is basic, and a high concentration of H+ molecules makes the solution is acidic. The scale of pH ranges from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very basic) with 7 being neutral. If the pH of your solution increases in number from six to seven it is read as a decreased in acidity. Likewise, if your solution decreases from six to five the acidity of your solution just increased.
In hydroponics it is important to maintain a relatively constant pH. You do not want too much fluctuation in the measurement of the pH. For example, one day your pH is measured to be 5.0 and two days later it some how moved to 8.0. To keep your solution stable it is important to understand some guidelines. First, you need to keep your solution moving with a circulatory pump. Second, you need to exchange old solution for a new solution every week or two. This means all of the solution. Third, your solution must be aerated.
It is necessary to keep the pH of the solution between 5.5 and 6.5 for cannabis. Although it is our understanding, that cannabis prefers a constant pH of 6.0 a slightly acidic solution, but not acidic enough to harm the plant. A pH of 6 is ideal because it allows the roots absorb nutrients from the water.
To adjust the pH we recommend buying pH raise and pH lower from your local hydroponics shop or from a commercial manufacturer. However, they are other methods to adjust the pH. For instance, if you want to lower your pH in number from say 8 to 6 ( known as rising pH), all you have to do is add two tablets of aspirin per gallon of distilled water that are added to your system.
To raise your pH in number say from 6-8 (known as lowering pH) you can add potassium hydroxide to the solution. Typically it takes a very small amount per gallon to have the opposite effect of the aspirin. It is necessary, about every two days, to check the pH. On average a plant consumes about one gallon of water a day, which will cause the pH to become more acidic.
The easier and more controlled method of adjusting the pH level is to use a premixed chemical adjuster. These adjusters can be purchased at any hydroponic outlet and come in two bottles labeled pH raise and pH lower. To use this product you need to get a five-gallon bucket and add the new nutrient solution. After that you check the pH of that specific solution. Then using either pH raise or pH lower, you adjust the pH to the correct level. Remember to take a final pH reading before placing the solution anywhere near your plants
Why does pH matter? The correct pH is essential to a plant because it is what determines, how, and if the plant absorbs nutrients. If your solution is either to acidic or to basic then your plants will not be able to take up nutrients appropriately. The nutrients will precipitate into insoluble salts, and the plants will not be able to extract them from the solution. This will cause your plants to show signs of deficiencies. Moreover, very high or low pH levels can damage the plants vital root system, and burn its tissues. If your pH falls below 3.8 your plant will start to show signs of potassium and calcium deficiencies. If your pH rises to above 7.4 it will cause nutrients like iron to precipitate out of the solution, producing an iron deficiency in the plants. Basically if your plants start to change colors then you need to check, adjust, or change your solution.
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