SPECIES
The next thing one should know about are the different types
of Cannabis species. There are 3 main species of Cannabis plants.
These are Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis. Each species has its own group
of strains which are many. Each species has different characteristics
and each strain of each species has its own special identity–
At the moment there are approximately 450 seed varieties of
Cannabis on the market today. Out of the 450 seed varieties, 200 are
worth looking at and out of the 200 varieties about 50 or so are
outstanding. Each strain is either a pure species type (taking 2 plants
of the same species and crossing them) or a crossbreed of two or more
species (taking 2 plants from different species and crossing them).
Out of the 450 seed varieties we said that 200 where good.
This leaves 250 left. Those 250 are usually very unstable crossbreed
strains. These complete hybrids plants are mixed so much that they
can not be classified at either Sativa or Indica. They are classified in a
different way and we will explain this in the strain format table below.
Most hybrids do not last long on the market and are primarily
found only among breeders who are experimenting with their plant’s
genetics. Seed producers tend to only produce the following strain
categories. Some Hybrids can be excellent though!
PURE SATIVA (This is a pure species)
SATIVA (This is a mostly Sativa species with some Indica)
PURE INDICA (This is a pure species)
INDICA (This is a mostly Indica species with some Sativa)
INDICA/SATIVA (This is a 50/50 cross between a Sativa and an
Indica species)
They also produce:
RUDERALIS (This is a pure species)
And some other Ruderalis mixes. However Ruderalis is a
problematic plant. It does not produce large quantities of THC, nor
does it flower like the other varieties. Ruderalis is considered substandard
by most growers because it flowers according to age and does
not flower according to the photoperiod. We will explain what the
photoperiod is in a moment.
Now remember that we said an Indica/Sativa cross would
produce two different highs. Well we lied a little. If they are both
50%/50% crosses then the high will be a 50%/50% mix. Indica/Sativa
and Sativa/Indica is really the same thing.
Pure Sativa is a total ‘Head High’. Pure Indica is a total ‘Body
Stone/couch-lock’. A 50/50 cross will give a 50% ‘Head high’ and a
50% ‘Body Stone’. If an Indica plant is crossed slightly with a Sativa
plant it will give a 60% ‘Body Stone’ and a 40%‘Head High’. A Sativa
plant that is crossed slightly with an Indica plant will give a 60%
‘Head High’ and a 40% ‘Body Stone’. The 60/40 ratio is most
common but some breeders can change that ratio. When choosing a
seed, check to see if it is pure or if it has a ratio. Most seed sellers will
have this listed along with their seed type. So when we look at some
strains that are crossbreeds we must understand which species the
plants are leaning towards. Along with the cross you can expect that
the plant will look different. Some Sativa plants may be shorter
because of the Indica breeding in them and some Indica plants may be
taller because of the Sativa breeding in them. This is okay though
because later on we will find that as a grower we have control over
how a plant will look and grow. As a grower we can influence height
and plant features. We can also harvest the plant in such a way that we
can produce a different high type. The later you harvest the plant the
more you will help produce a couch-lock effect. Harvesting just before
peak will induce a cerebral high. If you are working with strains that
are for either cerebral or couch-lock highs then you can harvest early
or later and help produce some of these ‘high type’ properties.
Figure 2.2 -This is a wonderful harvest picture by GIYO.
Hopefully with the knowledge you have been given so far you
are equipped to choose a plant that fits your needs in terms of height,
potency and high type. There is no point trying to grow an 8-foot
Sativa Bush indoors if you do not have the space for it. 2 foot Indica
plants outdoors may not survive if other plants compete with it for
light. As a rule we can always shorten the plants lengths through
pruning, but rarely can we double the plants height if the strain’s genes
only allow the strain to grow 2 or 3 feet.
The best way to get seeds is from a friend who has grown a
type of plant that you enjoyed to smoke. This, by far, is the best way
because, (1) You will get the seeds for free and (2) you know what the
high type will be because you have already tasted it.
The next best way is the Internet. The Internet is full of seed-
banks that wish to sell you seeds, but there are a few problems that you
may encounter. The first problem is that some of these seed-banks will
rip you off. The second is that some of these seed-banks do not ship
worldwide. The third is that some of these seed-banks misrepresent
their stock. The fourth is that seeds can be very expensive. Some seed-
banks sell seeds anywhere between (US Dollars = $, UK Sterling = £)
$80/£70 and $300/£290 for 10 -16 seeds. There are rip-off artists out
there, but then again some of these seeds are worth the money because
the strain is excellent in vigor and production. So how do we choose
our seed-bank and how do we really know what seeds to pick. (Greg Green Quote)
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN CHOOSING SEEDS
Okay, so now you have an idea of what type of plant you want
and the seed-bank that you are going to use. The next step is too check
if the seeds are for indoor or outdoor use. There is a saying that all
cannabis seeds can be grown indoors and outdoor. This is true, but that
is not what the breeder had intended. If the breeder had created a plant
that does well indoors then it is suggested that you only grow these
seeds indoors. If you grow outdoors and the plant does not produce
that well, then you know that you should have followed the breeder’s
advice. Next time take that advice. There is nothing stopping you from
experimenting, and some growers have produced excellent results by
putting outdoor seeds indoors or putting indoor seeds outdoors, but it is
best if you follow the advice you are given, especially if you are new to
growing.
From the Cannabis Grow Bible By Greg Green
THC
Cannabis plants produce psychoactive ingredients called
cannabinoids. The main ingredient of the cannabinoids that gives the
high effect is called -delta 9 THC. All strains vary in THC levels that
come in different percentages. Some plants may contain 100% THC
but the “levels” of THC may be low. Other plants have only 60% THC,
but the “levels” of THC may be very high. A good potent plant will
have both levels and quantities very high. Cannabis plants also
produce something called -delta 8 THC. This ingredient is in low
levels but does contribute to the high. When we mention THC levels,
we are talking about both delta 8 and 9 THC.
There are also other ingredients that add to the high such as
CBD, CBN, THCV, CBDV, CDC and CBL, but are only very minor
compared to THC.
The difference between THC levels and THC quantities is that
THC levels are genetic. They are not under the influence of the
grower. THC quantities on the other hand are. This is to do with bud
mass and how much resin can be generated in that bud mass.
Some bud may only contain 20% THC, with a THC level of 5.
The same plant grown under better conditions and light will produce
70% THC, with a THC level of 5. The ‘5’ is genetic. The quantities of
20% and 70% are under the grower’s control.
When examining a strain in a seed-bank catalogue one is
guided to check for the THC levels of that plant to understand how
potent the plant is. Many seed sellers and breeders measure their
plants THC levels and give accounts on how much THC their plants
have. Of course many breeders like to exaggerate on how much THC
their plants produce, but some do not. If you wish to know more about
THC levels it is best to consult your seed-bank or breeder for details.
No complete study of cannabinoids has been made public
since this book’s publication. This is because cross breeding produces
so many different results that it is hard to keep track on what is
happening. Some ‘old timer’ strains are still around and have been
tested. This information can be obtained from the larger seed
production companies in Holland. THC testing is also an expensive
process that requires heavy amounts of research.
The other interesting factor is that some plants do not produce
any THC at all. These plants have been genetically engineered (GM)
to produce very low levels of THC and are mainly used by farmers in
some countries who have permission to grow cannabis for hemp
production ONLY. It is best to keep away from these seeds and strains.
They will not get you high. There is project called the PMP (potency
monitoring project) that is carried out by some government-funded
agencies, but the results are questionable.
From the Cannabis Grow Bible By Greg Green
HE LIFE CYCLE OF THE MARIJUANA PLANT
We said before that a plant would grow in three main stages.
Germination, Vegetative growth and flowering. Plants actually grow
in 6 stages. Here is the life cycle of the cannabis plant.
This is the initial stage of growth and occurs when your
seed’s embryo cracks open and the seedling produces a root. This root
fixes itself into the soil and pushes the newborn seeding up and over
the soil surface. Following surface contact two embryonic leaves open
outwards to receive sunlight, pushing the empty seed shell away from
the seedling. It takes anywhere between 12 hours to 3 weeks for seeds
to germinate. Once the plant has reached this stage it goes into the
seedling stage.
After the first pair of embryonic leaves are receiving light
(Figure 2.12), the plant will begin to produce another small set of new
leaves. These leaves are different from the last and may have some
Marijuana characteristics such as the three-rounded finger shaped
points. As the seedling grows, more of these leaves are formed and
bush upwards along with a stem. Some stems are very weak at this
stage and need the support of a small thin wooden stake tied to the
seedling with some fine thread. The seedling stage can last between 1
and 3 weeks. At the end of the seedling stage your plant will have
maybe 4 -8 new leaves. Some of the old bottom leaves may drop off.
The plant now begins to grow at the rate which its leaves can
produce energy. At this stage the plant needs all the light and food it
can get. It will continue to grow upwards producing new leaves as it
moves along . It will also produce a thicker stem with
thicker branches and with more fingers on the leaves. It will eventually
start to show its sex. When it does this it is time for the plant’s pre-
flowering stage. It can take anywhere between 1 and 5 months for the
plant to hit this next stage.
Pre-flowering:
At this stage the plant slows down in developing its height
and starts to produce more branches and nodes. The plant fills out in
the pre-flowering stage. During this phase of the plant cycle your plant
will start to show a calyx which appears where the branches meet the
stem (nodes). Pre-flowering can take anywhere between 1 day to 2
weeks. (See last page of this book for pre-flowering/calyx illustration)
During this stage the plant continues to fill out. The plant will show its
sex clearly. The male plant produces little balls that are clustered
together like grapes. The female plant produces little white/cream
pistils that look like hairs coming out of a pod. Each of the plants will
continue to fill out more and their flowers will continue to grow. It can take anywhere between 4 to 16 weeks for the plant to fully develop its flowers. During this time the male’s pollen sacks would
have burst spreading pollen to the female flowers.
Seed:
The female plant will produce seeds at this point if she has received
viable pollen from a male plant. The seeds grow within the female bud
and can take anywhere between 2 weeks to 16 weeks, to grow to full
maturity. The female pistils may change color before finally bursting
the seedpods, sending them to the soil below. (Breeders like to collect
their seeds before the seedpods burst.)
These are the six stages of the life cycle of a cannabis plant. It
is important to know that if the males are separated from the females
and killed off then the females will not become pollinated. Let us go
back a step and describe what happens here.
Quote from gre greens book
What is propagation?
Propagation: 1 The action of breeding or multiplying by natural
processes; procreation, generation, reproduction. 2 The action of
spreading an idea, practice, etc., from place to place. 3 Increase in
amount or extent; enlargement; extension in space or time.
Propagation is ‘The Grow’. However most people treat
propagation as the actual events occurring between the planting of the
seed and the transplant of that seedling to the main grow environment.
Here we will treat propagation as the entire process of growing from
seed to harvest. Propagation also includes the logistics of the grow.
So what are you going to do? Are you going to buy a batch of
10 seeds and grow them all in one go? Are you going to then kill the
males and just smoke the females? Are you going to keep the males
and produce more seeds from the females? How many seeds can a
female plant produce? Should I plant my 10 seeds in one go? What
should I do to guarantee that all my seeds will grow? These are the
questions that you should be asking before you begin to grow and this
is where propagation logistics comes into play. The answers depend
largely on the size of your grow area and what your budget is.
To see a time lapse video of marijuana growing click here:
RESIN
Female plants produce resin glands (Figure 1.12 and 1.14).
Some of these glands may have lots of resin but are not very potent.
Other plants may have little resin but are very potent. Optimal growth
gives rise to a plant that has lots of resin and is very potent. Resin
glands are produced all over the female flowers and new leaves. They
can be seen clearly with the use of a magnifying aid. These resin
glands are correctly called Trichomes. cannabinoids. Photograph by Joop Jumas.
Resin can be rubbed off the bud using the fingers and then
rolled into the palms to create small balls of hand rubbed hashish. It is
within these glands that one is to find the main concentration of
produced cannabinoids and THC. When a plant is in full flowering the
resin gland can explode or break dropping resin down onto the leaves
below. This can also give the leaves their shiny frosty potent look
during flowering. Towards the bottom of the plant are located the fan
leaves. These leaves are generally large and collect most of the light
for plant growth. Because these leaves are far away from the top of the
plant, which produce the most amount of resin glands and buds, they
collect the least amount of resin and are not very potent. It is best to
consider separating these fan leaves from the rest of the plant after
harvest because these leaves will not give you the best quality high.
GENERAL INDOOR GROWING
Light is the most important factor next to choosing your
strain that you must consider. There are two main ways to light your
plants indoors -Natural light and artificial light. Both ways have
advantages and disadvantages.
The first thing you should know is that indoor lights produce
bigger flowers (more bud) than natural window light. This means you
get more THC quantity with artificial lights than you will with natural
sunlight indoors. Even in countries that have hot sun for 6 months of
the year you can still find it hard to produce big buds indoors under
natural light. Some people have grown plants under an attic window
that they open during the dry days. This will grow you bud but not as
much as you would get using an artificial light system. The other side
of the coin is that natural light is free, electricity is not and grow lights
are a little bit expensive to buy and use. They are definitely not as
expensive as it is to run an electric cooker 24 hours a day but they are
little expensive to use all the same.
When using a window grow try to place your plant near a
window that gets the most sunlight. Sun comes up in east and sets in
the west. It travels more north or south depending on which side of the
equator you are. Think about it for awhile. Also remember that you
have the seasons to think about. If you plan on a window grow try to
establish when you want your plant to receive most of its light. You
want your plant to get most of its light during flowering. If July is the
best month for sunlight then you may consider producing your
seedling back in April or May or even as early as late March. Try to
guess when you will get the best weather. Coordinate this with the
flowering times directed by the breeder and you will be able to foresee
your harvest time.
Also remember that people can look up and see your plant if
they are sitting near the window. Do people come to wash your
windows? Also remember that if you have a Sativa plant then they will
get big. Take all these factors into consideration when you are growing
your plants with natural sunlight indoors.
If you are growing indoors then you may have a room or part
of a room that you wish to use such as an attic, closet, basement, spare
bathroom or hot press. These locations nearly always need artificial
light. You may even decide to build a cabinet yourself. There are many
ways to set-up an indoor grow room. We will discuss this later in
detail.
GENERAL INDOOR GROWING
Figure 3.9 -Indoor Grow room picture by Shipperke.
Light is the most important factor next to choosing your
strain that you must consider. There are two main ways to light your
plants indoors -Natural light and artificial light. Both ways have
advantages and disadvantages.
The first thing you should know is that indoor lights produce
bigger flowers (more bud) than natural window light. This means you
get more THC quantity with artificial lights than you will with natural
sunlight indoors. Even in countries that have hot sun for 6 months of
the year you can still find it hard to produce big buds indoors under
natural light. Some people have grown plants under an attic window
that they open during the dry days. This will grow you bud but not as
much as you would get using an artificial light system. The other side
of the coin is that natural light is free, electricity is not and grow lights
are a little bit expensive to buy and use. They are definitely not as
expensive as it is to run an electric cooker 24 hours a day but they are
little expensive to use all the same.
Figure 3.10 -The Sun. Picture by Inf3cted.
When using a window grow try to place your plant near a
window that gets the most sunlight. Sun comes up in east and sets in
the west. It travels more north or south depending on which side of the
equator you are. Think about it for awhile. Also remember that you
have the seasons to think about. If you plan on a window grow try to
establish when you want your plant to receive most of its light. You
want your plant to get most of its light during flowering. If July is the
best month for sunlight then you may consider producing your
seedling back in April or May or even as early as late March. Try to
guess when you will get the best weather. Coordinate this with the
flowering times directed by the breeder and you will be able to foresee
your harvest time.
Also remember that people can look up and see your plant if
they are sitting near the window. Do people come to wash your
windows? Also remember that if you have a Sativa plant then they will
get big. Take all these factors into consideration when you are growing
your plants with natural sunlight indoors.
If you are growing indoors then you may have a room or part
of a room that you wish to use such as an attic, closet, basement, spare
bathroom or hot press. These locations nearly always need artificial
light. You may even decide to build a cabinet yourself. There are many
ways to set-up an indoor grow room. We will discuss this later in
detail.
GROWING FACTORS
This is important to bear in mind before you grow your weed.
Have you got the time to take care of your plants? Are you going to be
taking long holidays? Have you got someone you trust to take care of
your plants? And if you do how secure is your grow area? How do the
people you live with feel about this? Can you hide the smell when the
plants start to flower? Are you prepared to pay money on lights and
other grow items? Are you prepared to pay the costs of a higher
electricity bill? Are people going to see your grow room? Are people
going to walk past your grow site outdoors? Is the meter man going to
see your grow room? Is the gas man going to see your grow room? Are
you sure that you really want to do this?
If you are negative on any of these points above then I suggest
that you resolve those issues before you move on.
The next thing I am going to tell you is the most important
thing you will ever hear when growing marijuana. People have lived
their whole lives growing cannabis and have never had an encounter
with the law. It is so simple, but very hard to do. If you can do it then
you are halfway to being an expert grower. Are you ready for it? (The Grow Bible)
Quote from greg greens book
HE INDOOR GROWING OF CANNABIS
There are many ways to grow your cannabis plant indoors.
The two core methods of indoor growing are soil growing and
hydroponics. There is a separate chapter for hydroponics, and so this
chapter will deal with soil growing.
Figure 5.1 -Indoor Grow room. Picture by RealHigh.
There are many ways to grow an indoor soil garden. The most
common indoor set-ups are:
1. Bench growing,
2. SOG growing,
3. ScrOG growing
4. Cabinet growing.
We will discuss these methods in a moment but let us first see what
they all have in common.
LIGHTS
Lights come in all shapes, sizes, wattage and type. A full
indoor grow lighting kit should contain the following items. Bulb,
reflector, ballast, timer and electrical inputs/outputs.
Most lighting kits are open, meaning that no hood or glass
will cover the bulb. It hangs directly under the reflector. The bulb is
fixed into a socket that is attached to the inside of the reflector. That
socket is connected to the ballast. The ballast can be internal or
external. If external there will be a cord leading to the ballast from the
bulb’s socket. The ballast plugs into a domestic light socket like the
one you have in your home. Some ballast types even have a built-in
timer.
When buying a lighting system it is recommend that you buy
a complete system and an extra bulb. Check to make sure that the
lighting system meets safety regulations and has some sort of
guarantee with it.
quote from greg greens book
LIGHT BANDS
Light can be separated into a spectrum, which form the colors
of the rainbow. Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.
Each of these lights mix down to give white light. Artificial lights,
because of their nature, tend to lean towards a tint of one of these
colors when they mix down to form white light.
The electro-magnetic spectrum is a term used in lighting to
describe the distribution of electro-magnetic radiation by reference to
energy. This table roughly gives wavelengths, frequencies and energies
for parts of the spectrum. There is also the color part of the spectrum
that is very important for plants.
Plants are green, which means that Plants absorb light at the
middle of the spectrum (Orange to Indigo). Cannabis plants need this
part of the light spectrum to reach full growing potential. The intensity
of the light is also important. A light that feeds the full bandwidth with
all light spectrums will work very well -like sunlight. When dealing
with artificial lights it is better to choose a light that concentrates its
intensity on the top part of the spectrum. The most common indoor
light systems are called HID lights. We will discuss the full range of
lights that you may come across in some grow rooms.
POOR LIGHTING SYSTEMS
These are the lights you find in use around your house. These
lights come in all sizes and wattage -15 watts to 150 watt. These
lights are not suitable for growing because of their low light intensity
and bad color spectrum.
AVERAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS
Fluorescent Tube Lights:
Figure 5.7 and 5.8 -These are examples of some fluro fixtures and
bulbs that can be bought in most hardware stores.
These lights are the long industrial lights that are found in
many a school and work place. These lights come in nearly all lengths
and sizes. 2 to 10 feet are the main sizes that are out there. They also
run between 10 watts and 300 watts. These lights are okay for growing
but they provide little light and are hard to set up properly. They also
are not in best light spectrum for Cannabis plants to grow in.
Halogen Lights:
Figure 5.9 -A Halogen light.
Halogen lights are the small lights that can be seen on the
outside of factories for flood lighting the grounds during the night.
They are usually small and black. These lights can range anywhere
between 75watts and 4000watts.
Halogens get extremely hot and can provide an unsuitable
condition for growing Cannabis under. They are not recommended
because they are dangerous to use indoors for growing. They are also
not in the best light spectrum for growing Cannabis.
Fluorescent White Tube Lights:
These are not in use much and are very similar to the
Fluorescent lights except they are in the correct growing spectrum.
These lights are not very strong and do not range much above
100watts. They are only recommend for growers who do not want to
grow full flowering cannabis plants.
Figure 5.10 -White Tube Light.
BEST LIGHTING SYSTEMS
Horticultural Lights:
These lights are professional horticultural lights. They are
developed by horticultural lighting companies and are tested to suit
growing plants indoors. These lights are commonly called HID (High
Intensity Discharge). Like the former lights these also come in kits
with bulb, reflector, ballast and timer. They also come in different
wattage and different shapes and sizes. If you want to grow good bud
then you need a HID. A HID is the second most important purchase
you will make next to choosing your strain.
Metal Halide (MH) and Mercury Vapor (MV):
The lights are HID lights and are used for the seedling and
vegetative growth stages of your plant. They can also be used for
flowering and are quite good too. They come in all shapes and sizes
and range from 75W -4000watts. These lights are very common and
are a good kit for the indoor Cannabis grower.
Mercury Vapor is not as common as it used to be. It has
almost been replaced by Metal Halide now. If you have a choice
between the two it is best to stay with the new MH kits. MV also has a
tendency to be slightly out of the optimal spectrum range.
High Pressure Sodium (HPS):
This is the lighting choice of many a Cannabis Cultivator.
These lights come in all shapes and sizes and have a range of 75watts 4000watts.
These lights are in the perfect spectrum for growing
cannabis and come highly recommended.
Figure 5.11 -This is an example of a HPS and also a MH Light
system. There is nothing at face value to Indicate that the light is a
HPS or a MH. To check this out we need to look at the ballast and the
bulb and read what is says about the type of light system that it is. MH
lights tend to give off a blue tone, while HPS tend to give off an
orange tone.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A LIGHT
The first thing to say is that some growers have a MH set-up
for seedlings and vegetative growth and a HPS for flowering. The HPS
is a better flowering lamp, while the MH is a better veg lamp. If we
can only afford one we should get a HPS. Both MH and HPS can be
used for vegetative growth and flowering. However since we are
growing for bud, we should try to get the best HPS we can.
The next thing they look for is the light kit itself. Check to see
that the light is certified and is in good shape. Then check to see if the
light is air-cooled. Some of these lights have a fan built in which keeps
the light cool. If you see this then you know that you are going to need
somewhere to vent your air. This may mean that you need to adjust a
wall in your grow area so that the air is extracted from the light.
Figure 5.12 -This picture shows two air-cooled hoods attached to
their respective air ducts. This photograph is by Chimera.
Lights that are air-cooled (Figure 5.12) tend to last longer and
do not heat up your grow area that much. Most expert growers like to
keep a room at a stable controllable temperature and use these air-
cooled lights to achieve that. If your light is not air-cooled then you
will have to build an air vent and fan in your grow room wall to keep
the temperatures under control. Cannabis leaves will burn if placed too
close to a HID light.
Figure 5.13 -This is a water-cooled light system. These inventions
have been around for awhile but have not caught on that much
because they require a good bit of work. A constant pump of cool
water must be circulated into and out of the light system.
The next thing to check is how the light is supported. Does it
require a light stand or does it require to be hung from the ceiling. In
most cases you will be able to make your own stand if you feel that you
are not willing to fasten a few hooks and chains to your ceiling. Also
check to see if the electrical fittings suit your needs. Will they plug
straight into your system at home or do you need an adapter? Maybe
you might require an extension cord with your purchase. Most HID
kits can only take a specific wattage of bulb and a certain type of bulb.
If you have a 600W HPS system, then you should only use 600W HPS
bulbs. Some lighting kits have something called a ’switchable ballast’
The next thing to look for is the guarantee. Check to see what
the manufacturer has said about this light and how long the guarantee
is for. Last but not least is the most important part of your light. The
wattage and lumens.
WATTAGE AND LUMENS
HID Lights can range anywhere between 75W and 4000W. In
general the stronger the wattage the more light that bulb will produce.
However we must also consider another factor and that factor is called
Lumens. Lumens are the correct way of measuring how much light per
square foot a bulb emits. Lumens and wattage do go hand in hand but
can vary a large amount between systems. The better the lighting kit,
the better the lumens it will cast. Lumens have more to do with the
design of the light than the wattage of the light itself. Some 600W
lights may give the same lumens as a 400W light. Have a look at this
134
chart:
LAMP TYPE
M.V
WATTS
175
LUMENS
8000
M.H 400 36000
H.P.S 600 45000
H.P.S 600 36000
This is interesting because we have two types of HPS lights
using the same bulb wattage and one of the types is casting more
Lumens than the other. The reason for this is that the higher lumens
kit is better quality than the other. So we now know that some lighting
kits produce better Lumens than others. Check through HID lighting
kits and look at how many lumens they cast. This is a good Indicator
of how professional that light is. Also a 4000W HID is too much for
any grow room. A 1K (1000W) bulb is the maximum light wattage you
should purchase. Use several 1K bulbs if you need more light. A 4K
bulb will bleach Cannabis and is very hot.
LUMENS AND MARIJUANA GROWING
Now for the big question. How many Lumens do I need? Well
this depends on three things. (1) How much do you want to spend? (2)
How many plants do you have? (3) How big is your grow area?
You do not want to go less than 2500 Lumens, even for one
plant. You want to get the best so you need to hit the 45000 mark or
more. In general one light that casts 45000 lumens is enough to cover
a workspace of about 3 feet by 3 feet. This is quite an average space
and you will probably get anything between 6 -9 plants in that area.
Again we must keep in mind the strain that we are growing. One large
Sativa plant can cover a 9 square foot grow area in no time. Short
Indica plants are different. You can get maybe 12 plants into a 9
square foot grow area. If you really want to pump up your plants then
you may consider a lamp that casts 100,000 Lumens or more. If you
want a bigger grow area then you may consider 2 lamps that cast
100,000 Lumens each. All is relative to how much you want to grow
and the size of your grow room.
Let’s say for the record that we would like to grow 4 plants.
Then what we should aim for is a light that casts 45000 Lumens. This
means we should buy a 600-Watt HID system. Let’s say we want to
pump up our available light to around 60,000 Lumens. This means we
should buy a 1000-Watt HID system. If our area is bigger we might
need 2 or more 1000-watt HID lights to achieve this. It is all very
respective to the 3 elements we mentioned above.
There is nothing wrong if you want to use a 1000-watt HID
light on 2 plants. They will grow bigger and better. The only thing is,
do we really want to spend all that money on the light and the
electricity bill? HID lights range anywhere between $220/£200 and
$700/£670 for a full kit. You may be able to buy the parts and build
your own, but this is only recommended if you have some experience
with lights first. A 600W HPS kit should cost about $250/£230. This is
money well spent if you want great plants with big buds.
Over time you will understand more about grow rooms and
how to light them properly. With experience you should be able to tell
what light suits your needs. As a general rule, when in doubt buy a
400W HPS or better. Even a 250W HPS can get you good-sized buds
but go below that mark and you will only end up with less than
average results.
LIGHTING FACTORS AND HOW TO GET THE MOST
FROM YOUR LIGHT
The reflector part of the lighting kit can also cause a
difference in lumens cast between two different systems using the same
bulb. The reflector does it exactly what is says. It reflects light. The
other thing to consider is that when the light bounces off the reflector
it is going to fall down on your plant. When it does your plants will
absorb this light. Not all of the available light is picked up by the plant
and some of the light will escape and reflect off your workbench. Your
bench may even absorb some of the light. This is your light that you
are spending money on so why not try and do something about saving
this escaping light. Some reflectors are very good and some are very
poor. Reflectors should not be any color other than white or polished
metal. Some reflectors may have a small green film of plastic covering
their insides. Remove this if you can. It should just pull off like a piece
of tape.
Many people get mirrors or tin foil and line their grow area
with it. This is NOT good. MIRRORS ABSORB LIGHT. This
means that only a small amount of your light is reflected back towards
your plant. What you need is something white. White is the best color
for reflecting light, period. Not shiny glossy white, just plain ‘flat’
white. A white wall will reflect more light than a mirror will. Many
growers like to paint the walls of their grow ‘flat’ white. This helps a
lot. Other people like to line their grow area with the back end of tin
foil wrapping (the white side). This is okay, but make sure that you use
the white side and not the shiny side.
A substance which looks like a tin foil sheet, called Mylar
(Fig. 5.15), is very popular in cannabis grow rooms. Instead of using
white walls you can use this reflective alternative. Most DIY and
hardware stores will sell it in roles.
Figure 5.15 -Mylar comes in roles like this.
Figure 5.16 -Mylar in the grow room by Shipperke
It is also recommend that you keep a spare bulb at all times in
case your other bulb dies. It is no good going down to the local
hardware store only to find that they are out of the bulb type that you
need. This could leave your plants without light for along time.
It is also wise to remember that plants need
water and lights use electricity. Both these factors when
mixed are extremely dangerous. Be safe and wise and
keep all electrical outlets away from your plants and any
liquids that you use.
Okay so you have your grow area set-up with all your security
arrangements met. You have your lights set up and hanging down over
your grow area. You also have some form of light reflection around
your plants to help conserve your light. Your seed-bank has sent you
your seeds and you have germinated them. They are on a tray next to
you and you are preparing to transplant them into larger pots. The
larger pot will stay with the plant throughout its life cycle and you
need to provide the best medium possible in which your plant will
grow.(quote from Greg greens BookThe Grow Bible)
WAYS TO GERMINATE YOUR SEEDS
Seeds can be germinated in a number of ways. Some ways
guarantee more success than others. It is recommended that you
consider the ‘rockwool SBS propagation tray’ method.
:
This is a method whereby the seeds are placed down in moist
soil about 3mm or the length of the seed from the surface. The soil is
kept moist (Not soaking wet) by sprinkling water over it once a day.
This has a moderate success rate. Out of 10 seeds only 7 -8 may
germinate.
Seed towel propagation:
damp towel or on a damp piece of cotton wool. Cheesecloth may also
be used. The seed is then covered with more damp wool or a damp
towel. The towel/wool must be kept moist at all times. If the material
dries out it may damage the seeds. Everyday check to see if the seeds
have started to produce any roots. If they have then immediately
transfer the seedling to a grow medium (such as soil) using a pair of
tweezers. Do not touch the root. This has a moderate to high success
rate. Out of 10 seeds 8 -9 may germinate. The problem with this
method is that sometimes the transplant can cause the seedling to go
into shock. This can kill the germination process leaving you with
nothing. With practice you can get all your seeds to germinate.
Propagation kits:
This is a method whereby the seeds are placed in small unit,
called a seed or clone propagator, which is designed to help plants
germinate. One such kit is called a rockwool SBS Propagation Tray.
Some of these kits can be heated and look like a miniature greenhouse.
At the bottom of the tray is a small area where water, or even better
‘some germination hormone’ is poured. Small grow cubes called
rockwool cubes are placed into slots in the tray, which automatically
dips the rockwool into the solution (Figure 3.8). The seeds are placed
into tiny holes in the cubes and the cover is then put back on the unit.
This has a very high success rate. All the seeds can sometimes
germinate and in most cases often do. The disadvantage to this method
is that you need to spend money on the tray, rockwool and grow
fertilizers. The price of the tray is about $10/£10, the rockwool cubes
$5/£5, the grow fertilizers $5/£5. If you have spent $50/£50 on seeds
then why not spend the extra $20/£20 on getting a small kit together
like this. The other advantage is that you can use this same tray to help
root your clones.
DANGERS WHEN PROPAGATING SEEDS
Drafts are a killer and will stunt germination. Always make
sure that you keep your germinating seeds away from any open
windows or fans. Also make sure that the room is kept warm. A cold
room can inhibit your germination rates. The other thing to look out
for when using germination fertilizers is to make sure that your
mixture is correct. Do not use high doses of fertilizers with seedlings.
In fact water is all seedlings should need. You do not need to add
anything. Some people do use germination solutions though, but make
sure that you keep these solution strengths down low. An incorrect
mixture can burn your seedlings and cause them to fail. Another thing
to do is to leave your seeds alone to grow. Do not go fiddling with
them, hence the term ‘digging up your seeds’. Some people tend to
disturb the soil to see how their seeds are doing. This is a bad move
and can break or even damage the seed and root. The other thing to
keep in mind is that some strains produce seedlings that have weak
stems. This means that the seedling may tend to lean, sometime more
than 90 degrees, to the left or right. If you find that your seedlings
need support then use a small stick to hold your seedling up. Tie the
stem to the stick using a piece of thread. Never tie the thread above a
growing shoot or the seedling will push up against the thread and rip
itself. You may continue to use a stick to support your plant as it
grows. If your plant still has a weak stem during vegetative growth it is
recommended that you give the base of the stem a little shake every
morning and evening. This will help the plant to develop a more solid
stem. Outdoors the wind shakes a plant and causes it to develop this
solid stem. You can fake the wind by doing this mildly every morning
for two or three seconds. However if you read on you will find that
indoor fans help do this. (Note: Never bring a stick from outdoors
indoors for support as the stick may have some bugs on it. Some bugs
such as spider mites can go undetected in their incubation nests inside
the wood.)
Seeds must also be viable if they are going to germinate.
Never use white seeds. These are immature. Find seeds that have white
and grey markings or another color apart from white.
Crushed seeds will also not germinate. Old seeds may have
trouble germinating. Always try to use the best seeds you can find.
The above is a quote from Greg Greens BOOK!
Hydroponic cultivation (PER WIKIPEDIA.COM)
Hydroponic cultivation generally occurs indoors, although there is no practical obstacle to growing outdoors. In general, it consists of a non-soil medium which is exposed to a nutrient and water flow.
There are many types of hydroponic systems. If the nutrient solution floods the loose growing medium and recedes for aeration, this is an ebb and flow or flood and drain system. Systems that gradually drip solution onto the medium are drip systems. Systems that intermittently spray roots floating in air are called aeroponic systems. If aerated water runs down a channel lined with a film of rooting medium, this is a nutrient film technique system. A series of tubes intermittently running high flow nutrient solution into the tops of growing containers use a top feed system.
Hydroponic systems greatly increase aeration of plant roots, and increase control of nutrient uptake. Hydroponic systems are decidedly more difficult to operate for the amateur or hobby grower, as over-fertilization is common, because there is no soil to act as a nutrient buffer. For this reason, many growers now use coconut fibre as a soilless medium due to its high drainage and buffering capabilities, making it almost impossible to over-fertilize. Additionally, if a hydroponic system fails, the crop has a high probability of dying as the roots rapidly dry out (this is especially true of aeroponic systems). However, properly operated hydroponic systems, with other factors at an optimum, have been proven to outperform soil under the same environmental circumstances.
In marijuana culture, some believe that hydroponically cultivated marijuana can have fewer byproducts in the resultant smoke and ash, providing for a cleaner and healthier smoke. Of course, the veracity of such claims is suspect, as with proper pre-harvest flushing, and post-harvest drying and curing, there would be nothing to indicate an inherent difference in harmful content between soil and soilless mediums. This itself is controversial, as many growers/botanists believe any excess nutrients are broken down into sugars during the drying and curing processes, effectively killing the plant by starving it of nutrients.
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